Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
About this time we were beginning to run short of provisions, though
a month earlier we had ordered all sorts of luxuries--jams, Kashmir
wine, and so forth--from Srinagar, and had heard that they had been
despatched to Bandipur, to be forwarded thence by the Government
Commissariat Department. All inquiries were, however, fruitless,
but Bruce had promised that should he, on his way down country to
Abbottabad, discover their whereabouts he would hurry them on.
Eventually he found them reposing at Bandipur, so he at once packed
them on ponies and sent them to our camp in the Rupal nullah,
knowing how the Commissariat Department had to strain every nerve
to get the requisite grain supplies for the troops over the passes
to Gilgit before the bad weather set in and blocked the Burzil, and
that private baggage and supplies might wait indefinitely till such
time as it pleased the Department to find ponies to convey them to
their destination. Personally we did not wish to leave the Diamirai
nullah, but at the same time it was absolutely necessary that somehow
we should replenish our vanishing stock of food. Already two of
our Kashmir servants had been sent down into the Bunar district to
bring up whatever they were able to collect, but we could not depend
on the Chilas nullahs to yield us all we might want. This question
of provisioning our camp caused perpetual worry. Unless one has
trustworthy servants, every ten days or so one of the party has to
start off to the nearest village for supplies. This may take a week
or more, and as the period during which the big mountains are in a
condition to climb is at the best but very limited, much valuable time
will be wasted.
Bruce told me that whilst he was with Sir W. M. Conway, in the
Karakorams, all the catering was left to Rahim Ali, his servant. If
every fortnight during their stay at the head of the Baltoro glacier
they had been forced, as we were, personally to forage and seek for
dilatory servants, the climbing on Pioneer peak would have progressed
but slowly. A piece of advice which cannot be too strongly urged upon
those who go to the Himalaya is to get good servants at any cost,
not to grudge the time spent, for it will be regained afterwards a
hundredfold. The cook or khansammah ought to be the chief servant in
the camp. He ought to be responsible for everything: it is his business
to provide food, and a good cook who feeds one well, and takes the
responsibility of the endless small details of management and supply
off one's shoulders is worth five times the wages which are usually
given.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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