Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
But I had to get home that night, and also get the coolie home as well.
This was no easy matter, for there were some steep ice slopes, with
steps cut in them, and crevasses at the bottom, which so frightened
poor Richard the Third, that for a long time I could not induce him
even to try. In fact, ultimately I had to threaten him violently with
my ice-axe. Whether he thought that it was a choice of death by cold
steel above, or cold ice below in the crevasse, I don't know, but
he chose the latter, and was much surprised to find that he was not
going to be sacrificed after all. Then, before we got home it began
to rain heavily, the mists came down, everything becoming dull and
dreary, the wind sighed sorrowfully up and down the valley, and I was
sorry for Mummery on the inhospitable slopes of the great mountain.
Mummery spent the night on the top of the second rib of rocks, and
next day he climbed about a thousand feet up the third rib, where he
left a rucksack with food. The climb was carried out almost entirely
in mist; in fact, in the afternoon down at the camp the mist and rain
made things thoroughly uncomfortable. I was beginning to get anxious
about Mummery, for he did not come back by sunset, and the night
promised to be one of drenching rain. But later, in the dark, he
marched back into camp, entirely wet through, but far more cheerful
than the circumstances warranted, and very pleased with the climbing.
His account of the ice world on Nanga Parbat was wonderful. Nowhere in
the Caucasus had he seen anything to compare with it. Avalanches had
fallen down thousands of feet, set at an angle of over 60 degrees, that
would have almost swept away towns. The crevasses were enormous, and
the rock-climbing, although difficult, was set at such a steep angle
that no time would be lost in making height towards the upper glacier
underneath the final peak. If only the weather would clear, Mummery
was sure that we could get on to this upper glacier. But the weather
sulked and was against us, it rained nearly all the next day, finishing
up with a tremendous thunderstorm. In hope that fine weather would now
set in, we turned into our tents for the night. About midnight, gusts
of cold wind began to moan amongst the stunted pines that surrounded
our tents; then, gathering in force, this demon of the mountains howled
round our tents, and snow came down in driven sheets. The anger of
the spirits that inhabited the mountains had been roused, we were
being informed of what awaited us, should we persist in our impious
endeavours to penetrate into the sanctuaries above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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