Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
On the evening of the 18th, Mummery, Ragobir, and I slept at the camp
at the head of the glacier (15,000 feet), but next morning they went on
alone, for the coarse food of the previous three weeks had not agreed
with me: flour that is largely composed of grindstone is apt to upset
one's digestion. Again I sat for a whole morning watching them crawl
slowly up that second rib of rock. Once they were hidden from my sight
in a huge cloud of snow dust, the fringe of one of those tremendous
avalanches that I have only seen in the Himalaya. At last, becoming too
small to follow with the eye, they disappeared from my sight.
That night I was again back in the base camp. There I found a note from
Hastings that had been sent on ahead from the Lubar nullah with the
goat-herd and a coolie; and the next day Hastings himself arrived with
large quantities of provisions. He had been as far as Astor, and said
that without the invaluable help of Goman Singh he would never have got
the coolies back over the Mazeno La.
Late that night Mummery and Ragobir came into camp. They had passed the
second night on the summit of the second rib of rocks. Next morning,
starting before daylight, they had pushed on up the final rib towards
the upper snow-field. The climbing, Mummery admitted, was excessively
difficult, but the higher he went the easier it became. Finally, at a
height of over 20,000 feet, for he could see over the Nanga Parbat col
on his right, Ragobir turned ill: it was therefore folly to attempt to
spend another night on the mountain at that height. Reluctantly he had
to return; and his disappointment was great, for, as he said, most of
the difficulties had been overcome below the upper snow-field, and he
was confident that had he reached these upper snows and been able to
spend another night on the mountain, he might have reached the summit
on the following day.
Thus ended the only attempt Mummery made to reach the summit of Nanga
Parbat.
I shall always look upon it as one of his finest climbs. Part of it I
know from personal experience, and from Mummery's description of the
upper half, there must have been some magnificent climbing, surrounded
by an ice world such as can be seen nowhere except on peaks with at
least 15,000 feet of snow on them. But it was on too large a scale for
ordinary mortals, and the difficulties began just above the camp, at
the head of the glacier, 12,000 feet below the summit of the mountain.
Although the last 6000 feet of the mountain does not look as if it
would present much difficulty or danger, yet above 20,000 feet one
would necessarily make height very slowly, and much step-cutting would
be almost impossible at that height.
The following two days were spent in discussing what we should do next;
for Mummery had very sorrowfully come to the conclusion that his route
up Nanga Parbat from the Diamirai glacier must be abandoned.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account