Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
Next day we went over the pass, about 16,500 feet, into the Rakiot
nullah. From the summit a splendid view of the Rakiot glacier and
the northern side of Nanga Parbat could be seen. Never have I seen a
glacier that presented such a sea of stormy ruin; the waste of frozen
billows stretched ever upwards towards the ice-slopes that guarded
the topmost towers of the great mountain. Thunder and rain welcomed
us, and amidst dripping trees and cold mist our camp was pitched on
the true left bank of the glacier. From the top of the last pass we
had come over we could see the great face down which Mummery and the
Gurkhas would have had to come had they reached the Diama pass. It
seemed to us quite hopeless. I spent about half an hour looking through
a powerful telescope for any traces of steps cut down the only ridge
that looked at all feasible. I could see none. Hastings and I were
therefore of the opinion that Mummery had turned back. This he had told
us he intended to do should he find the pass either dangerous or very
difficult, for, as he pointed out, he was not going to risk anything on
an ordinary pass. Moreover, he had expressly taken sufficient food with
him, leaving it at the upper camp, so that should he have to return
and follow our footsteps he would have enough to last him for three
days. In the Rakiot nullah we could find no traces of him. Lor Khan and
Rosamir were at once sent back into the Ganalo nullah to meet Mummery
with extra food, Hastings and I in the meantime exploring some distance
up the valley. The day was more or less wet, with the mists lying low
down on the mountains. It cleared, however, in the evening. The next
two days were also wet and disagreeable. We were beginning to get
anxious, and when on the 29th Lor Khan and the coolie returned, having
seen nothing of Mummery, something had to be done.
[Illustration: _The Diama Pass from the Rakiot Nullah._]
We imagined that when the pass had proved to be too difficult, Mummery
had turned back to the high camp where the food had been left. From
there he would follow our route, but as the weather had been wretched,
with mist lying over all the hills, perhaps he had missed his way. Or
perhaps he might have sprained an ankle and be still in the Diamirai
nullah. It was therefore agreed that Hastings should return towards
the Diamirai nullah, and as my time was nearly at an end, if I wished
to get back to England by the end of September, I should make my way
to Astor as quickly as I could. Once there, I could wait a few days,
and Hastings promised that as soon as possible he would send a coolie
down to the nearest spot on the Gilgit-Chilas road, where there was a
telegraph-station, and telegraph the news to me at Astor.
Thus we parted company, Hastings returning along our old route to the
Diamirai, whilst I with a coolie and the cook set off for Astor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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