Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
Later, when one awakes, the morning sun has risen, sending his
light slanting across the hill-sides with a promise that before he
sets we may be delivered from the bottom of this singular abyss.
No description, however, can possibly give an adequate idea of the
immensity, the loneliness, and the feeling of the insignificance of
human affairs that is produced by this valley of the Indus below
Rhamghat.
It was not till the 13th that we reached Bunar Post, a small station
for troops at the bottom of the Bunar nullah. Here we were met by
Captain de Vismes, who was in command of the Chilas district. He had
most kindly come from Chilas to help us with coolies up the Bunar
nullah, and from there to the Diamirai nullah. From Bunar Post to our
destination it took no less than three days' hard travelling; for as
I have already pointed out, it is not possible to go straight up the
valley. If we had been able to travel direct, it meant an ascent of
some 9000 feet, but by the only possible route that existed, nearly
double that height had to be climbed before we finally, on the 16th,
found ourselves once more in the Diamirai nullah. What a change,
however, met our gaze! The great masses of wild rose-trees that had
welcomed us on our first visit were bare even of leaves. The willow
groves now lifted gaunt, leafless branches into the chill air, and
sighed mournfully when the cold wind shook them, and the rhododendrons
were powdered with snow. Winter had set in, as the Chilas herdsmen had
warned us it would, only a month before; and the contrast was all the
more marked when compared with the temperature of nearly 100° in the
shade, which existed a few miles away by the Indus.
Hastings and I soon saw that any attempt at exploration amongst the
higher glaciers was out of the question. We went up the glacier as
far as half-way to the old upper camp where the provisions had been
found untouched, but even there it was wading through snow nearly a
foot deep; ultimately we climbed through heavy powdery snow, perhaps
500 feet up the south side of the valley, to obtain a last look at the
valley in which Mummery, Ragobir, and Goman Singh had perished. The
avalanches were thundering down the face of Nanga Parbat, filling the
air with their dust; and if nothing else had made it impossible to
penetrate into the fastnesses of this cold, cheerless, and snow-covered
mountain-land, they at least spoke with no uncertain voice, and bade us
be gone. Slowly we descended, and for the last time looked on the great
mountain and the white snows where in some unknown spot our friends lay
buried.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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