Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
Curiously, however, I have found that sometimes those who most loudly
complain of the Alps being played out are quite unacquainted with, or
at least have never attempted, most of those ascents which it was my
good fortune to make with Mummery. Certainly they were mostly made in
the Mont Blanc range, a part which does not seem to commend itself
so much to mountaineers of the present day as the eastern portion of
the Alps. Yet where can be found anywhere else, in the whole range,
rock pinnacles that are finer than the Aiguille Noire de Pétéret. Few
people know that its west face is a sheer precipice of several thousand
feet. In 1899 I was camping for a couple of days with Major Bruce and
Harkabir Thapa, just opposite to it on the ridge between the Brouillard
and Fresnay glaciers. It was then I watched a slab of rock fall from
about twenty feet below the summit. It was a mass weighing perhaps
fifty or a hundred tons. For over 1000 feet it touched nothing, then
striking on a ledge it burst into a thousand fragments with a noise
like thunder, and hardly one of the fragments touched rock again, but
descended straight to the snows of the Fresnay glacier beneath.
We were investigating the south-west corner of Mont Blanc, intending
if possible to make the ascent by the continuation of the Brouillard
ridge. With this prospect in view, we ascended the Brouillard glacier
to near the top of the Aiguille l'Innominata, but went no further.
The Brouillard is a glacier that to try and descend on a hot summer
afternoon would be foolish, to say the least of it. For, set at a very
high angle, and broken up in the wildest fashion, although presenting a
magnificent spectacle, it does not lend itself to safe mountaineering.
Harkabir was much disappointed that we refused to go on, for he thought
he could see his way up the rock escarpment at the head of the glacier,
and, were that possible, probably no more difficulty would be met with
from there to the summit. But in spite of the climber of the party
being confident we could proceed, I as conductor insisted on turning
back, being only a 'mere mountaineer.' One thing at least I was certain
of: Bertolini lived at Courmayeur, not Chamonix, and forty-year old
Barolo, together with countless other delicacies, was to be obtained
from him alone. To return, however, from the excellences of the cuisine
at Bertolini's to those of the range of Mont Blanc, should the jaded
climber of 'degraded' mountains want more rock peaks, the ascent of
the lesser Dru, in my opinion, can be repeated profitably. Not even
amongst the Dolomites can one get the sensation of dizzy height and
appalling depth to the same extent as on this mountain; moreover, there
is a most sporting though small glacier to cross before one begins the
rock ascent. Then the Charmoz and the Grépon are not to be despised.
For a most varied climb, requiring every kind of mountain craft, the
traverse of the Aiguille du Plan is to be recommended, from the Glacier
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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