Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
The icebergs, too, which drift south on this Labrador current, are
sometimes found in such low latitudes that if on the map the latitude
were followed due east it would be found to pass through Cairo, and
not many miles north of Lahore in India. The approach to the Lofoten
Islands from the south after one has passed the Arctic Circle is
particularly grand and beautiful. The mountains, owing to excessive
prehistoric glaciation, possess forms at once curious and peculiar,
giving an individuality to the view which is lacking further south on
the Norwegian coast. Lofoten, however, is not seen till the great West
Fjord is reached; then far away across thirty miles of blue waters,
which slowly pulsate with the long waves of the open sea, appears a
wonderful land of sharp-pointed peaks that with a deep sapphire colour
outshines the deeper purple of the restless sea.
The west coast of Scotland can give similar views. Rum, Skye, and
the Hebrides, as seen from the mainland at Arisaig or Loch Maree, in
some respects resemble these islands, but the Lofoten mountains are
far wilder and far more fantastic in shape, and the number of peaks
infinitely greater than in the western islands of Scotland.
Ages ago the West Fjord must have held an enormous glacier, although it
is improbable that the great ice-sheet which then covered the country
ever was thick enough to submerge the loftier summits of the Lofoten
Islands, the highest of which now stand 4000 feet above sea-level; yet
this ice-sheet must have been thousands of feet thick, for from any
mountain-top it is easy to see how whole masses of solid rock appear to
have been cut away, leaving valleys whose cross-section is a perfect
half-circle. To those who are sceptical of what ice will do, a visit to
the mainland opposite the Lofoten Islands would prove very instructive.
Even the most gigantic of Himalayan glaciers are feeble in comparison
with an Arctic ice-sheet such as that on Greenland or on the Antarctic
continent. On Nanga Parbat I have seen a vast glacier turned to one
side by its own moraine. Near Elvegaard on the Ofoten Fjord there
exist valleys whose sides for miles are perpendicular walls of rock
sometimes a couple of thousand feet high, and which undoubtedly have
been excavated and then polished by the power of the ice.
For many years I had been anxious to see the Lofoten Islands, for I had
heard rumours that they were more beautiful than Skye and the Coolin.
But it was not till 1901 that I was able to go there. It was in good
company that I went; Woolley, Hastings, and Priestman, all of whom had
been there before in 1897, were the other members of the party. They
were able to advise where to go, how to best overcome the difficulties
of provisioning our camp, and, what was still better, were all able to
speak Norsk fluently.
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