Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home MakingKinne, Helen
Science
Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home Making
Kinne, Helen
Clothing and dress; Sewing
Woolen yarn is not combed to remove the short fibers. It is, instead,
carded a great deal so that the wool fibers are well mixed and the
serrations of the tiny fibers arranged so that they will interlock,
when put in water of high temperature, and the gelatinous scales are
opened up. Woolen yarn is woven into broadcloths and meltons. After the
weaving the cloth is put into vats where the temperature opens up the
serrations and the scales interlock, and make a close, smooth piece of
cloth. This is called fulling. Isn't this interesting? Do you see why the
manufacturer uses worsted instead of woolen yarn for making underwear?
If worsted yarn were used for making broadcloth, there would not be the
same close finish. The worsted yarn is combed and the fibers are not in
position to interlock as in the woolen yarn (Fig. 124). Can you answer
the question now why worsted yarn is used sometimes and woolen at others?
[Illustration: FIG. 124.--This shows the difference in the slivers of
wool and worsted yarn. _A_ is the woolen yarn, well mixed; _B_ is the
worsted yarn, well combed.]
After the yarn has been spun, it is woven into cloth just as cotton is
prepared and woven. Woolen yarn is fuzzy; cloth made from it is woven
loosely and then it is put into vats and shrunken or fulled until the
cloth is compact, as broadcloth.
Worsted yarn when made into cloth is shrunken very little or not at all.
It is woven as it will appear. Beautiful homespuns and worsted suitings
are the result.
[Illustration: _Courtesy of M. J. Whittall._
FIG. 125.--The spinning of wool into yarn.]
Many fabrics made of wool are of simple weave like the plain homespun,
but complicated patterns are also woven of wool. The yarns are arranged
in the loom in the same way as the cotton about which we studied. Many
beautiful patterns are made in woolen materials, even the complicated
patterns of double cloth weaving like the old-fashioned golf capes, made
of double cloth, which were worn a few years ago.
So you can see that the manufacturer must know whether he is to
adulterate his wool cloth with cotton or reduce the cost of production
by using mungo, shoddy, or flocks. Flocks is put in when the cloth is
shrunken or fulled in the vats. The short pieces and dust, or flocks
as it is called, are drawn in as the serrations open and the cloth is
shrunken.
This is all useful to know, for it helps one in purchasing materials.
Most of us cannot afford to buy cloth made of all new wool, but we should
be able to tell whether cloth is made of cotton and wool mixed, or all
wool. We will know by price whether the all wool is new wool or not. No
shopkeeper should sell a cotton and wool for all wool. When we have our
textiles labeled as foods are now labeled, we shall be able to tell. What
have you learned to-day which will help you in purchasing wool materials?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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