Club Life of London, Vol. 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th CenturiesTimbs, John
History
Club Life of London, Vol. 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th Centuries
Timbs, John
Clubs -- England -- London; Literary landmarks -- England -- London; London (England) -- Social life and customs
The basement comprises two-storied wine-cellars beneath the hall;
besides the kitchen department, planned by Alexis Soyer, originally
_chef-de-cuisine_ of the Club: it contains novel employments of steam
and gas, and mechanical applications of practical ingenuity; the
inspection of which was long one of the privileged sights of London.
The _cuisine_, under M. Soyer, enjoyed European fame. Soyer first came
to England on a visit to his brother, who was then cook to the Duke of
Cambridge; and at Cambridge House, Alexis cooked his first dinner in
England, for the then Prince George. Soyer afterwards entered the
service of various noblemen, amongst others of Lord Ailsa, Lord
Panmure, etc. He then entered into the service of the Reform Club, and
the breakfast given by that Club on the occasion of the Queen's
Coronation obtained him high commendation. His ingenuity gave a sort
of celebrity to the great political banquets given at the Reform. In
his O'Connell dinner, the _soufflés à la Clontarf_, were considered by
gastronomes to be a rich bit of satire. The banquet to Ibrahim Pacha,
July 3, 1846, was another of Soyer's great successes, when Merlans à
l'Égyptienne, la Crême d'Égypte and à l'Ibrahim Pacha, mingled with Le
Gâteau Britannique à l'Amiral (Napier). Another famous banquet was
that given to Sir C. Napier, March 3, 1854, as Commander of the Baltic
Fleet; and the banquet given July 20, 1850, to Viscount Palmerston,
who was a popular leader of the Reform, was, gastronomically as well
as politically, a brilliant triumph. It was upon this memorable
occasion that Mr. Bernal Osborne characterized the Palmerston policy
in this quotation:--
"Warmed by the instincts of a knightly heart,
That roused at once if insult touched the realm,
He spurned each State-craft, each deceiving art,
And met his foes no vizor to his helm.
This proved his worth, hereafter be our boast--
Who hated Britons, hated him the most."
Lord Palmerston was too true an Englishman to be insensible to "the
pleasures of the table," as attested by the hospitalities of
Cambridge House, during his administration. One of his Lordship's
political opponents, writing in 1836, says: "Lord Palmerston is
redeemed from the last extremity of political degradation by his
cook." A distinguished member of the diplomatic body was once
overheard remarking to an Austrian nobleman, upon the Minister's
shortcomings in some respects, adding, "mais on dîne fort bien chez
lui."
It is always interesting to read a foreigner's opinion of English
society. The following observations, by the Viscountess de Malleville,
appeared originally in the _Courrier de l'Europe_, and preceded an
account of the Reform. Commencing with Clubs, the writer remarks:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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