Club Life of London, Vol. 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th CenturiesTimbs, John
History
Club Life of London, Vol. 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th Centuries
Timbs, John
Clubs -- England -- London; Literary landmarks -- England -- London; London (England) -- Social life and customs
The appetites of some Club members appear to entitle them to be called
_gourmands_ rather than _gourmets_. Of such a member of Crockford's
the following traits are related in the _Quarterly Review_, No.
110:--"The Lord-lieutenant of one of the western counties eats a covey
of partridges for breakfast every day during the season; and there is
a popular M.P. at present [1836] about town who would eat a covey of
partridges, as the Scotchman ate a dozen of becaficos, for a whet, and
feel himself astonished if his appetite was not accelerated by the
circumstance. Most people must have seen or heard of a caricature
representing a gentleman at dinner upon a round of beef, with the
landlord looking on. 'Capital beef, landlord!' says the gentleman; 'a
man may cut and come again here.' 'You may cut, Sir,' responds
Boniface; 'but I'm blow'd if you shall come again.' The person
represented is the M.P. in question; and the sketch is founded upon
fact. He had occasion to stay late in the City, and walked into the
celebrated Old Bailey beef-shop on his return, where, according to the
landlord's computation, he demolished about seven pounds and a half of
solid meat, with a proportionate allowance of greens. His exploits at
Crockford's have been such, that the founder of that singular
institution has more than once had serious thoughts of giving him a
guinea to sup elsewhere; and has only been prevented by the fear of
meeting with a rebuff similar to that mentioned in _Roderick Random_
as received by the master of an ordinary, who, on proposing to buy off
an ugly customer, was informed by him that he had already been bought
off by all the other ordinaries in town, and was consequently under
the absolute necessity of continuing to patronize the establishment."
Theodore Hook was a frequent visitor at Crockford's, where play did
not begin till late. Mr. Barham describes him, after going the round
of the Clubs, proposing, with some gay companion, to finish with half
an hour at Crockford's: "The half-hour is quadrupled, and the
excitement of the preceding evening was nothing to that which now
ensued." He had a receipt of his own to prevent being exposed to the
night air. "I was very ill," he once said, "some months ago, and my
doctor gave me particular orders not to expose myself to it; so I come
up [from Fulham] every day to Crockford's, or some other place to
dinner, and I make it a rule on no account to go home again till about
four or five o'clock in the morning."
After Crockford's death, the Club-house was sold by his executors for
2,900_l._; held on lease, of which thirty-two years were unexpired,
subject to a yearly rent of 1,400_l._ It is said that the decorations
alone cost 94,000_l._ The interior was re-decorated in 1849, and
opened for the Military, Naval, and County Service Club, but was
closed again in 1851. It has been, for several years, a
dining-house--"the Wellington."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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