Club Life of London, Vol. 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th CenturiesTimbs, John
History
Club Life of London, Vol. 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th Centuries
Timbs, John
Clubs -- England -- London; Literary landmarks -- England -- London; London (England) -- Social life and customs
Whitebait have long been numbered among the delicacies of our tables;
for we find "six dishes of Whitebait" in the funeral feast of the
munificent founder of the Charterhouse, given in the Hall of the
Stationers' Company, on May 28, 1612--the year before the Globe
Theatre was burnt down, and the New River completed. For aught we know
these delicious fish may have been served up to Henry VIII. and Queen
Elizabeth in their palace at Greenwich, off which place, and Blackwall
opposite, Whitebait have been for ages taken in the Thames at
flood-tide. To the river-side taverns we must go to enjoy a "Whitebait
dinner," for, one of the conditions of success is that the fish should
be directly netted out of the river into the cook's cauldron.
About the end of March, or early in April, Whitebait make their
appearance in the Thames, and are then small, apparently but just
changed from the albuminous state of the young fry. During June, July,
and August, immense quantities are consumed by visitors to the
different taverns at Greenwich and Blackwall.
Pennant says: Whitebait "are esteemed very delicious when fried with
fine flour, and occasion during the season a vast resort of the _lower
order of epicures_ to the taverns contiguous to the places where they
are taken." If this account be correct, there must have been a strange
change in the grade of the epicures frequenting Greenwich and
Blackwall since Pennant's days; for at present, the fashion of eating
Whitebait is sanctioned by the highest authorities, from the Court of
St. James's Palace in the West, to the Lord Mayor and _his_ court in
the East; besides the philosophers of the Royal Society, and her
Majesty's Cabinet Ministers. Who, for example, does not recollect such
a paragraph as the following, which appeared in the _Morning Post_ of
the day on which Mr. Yarrell wrote his account of Whitebait, September
10th, 1835?--
"Yesterday, the Cabinet Ministers went down the river in the Ordnance
barges to Lovegrove's West India Dock Tavern, Blackwall, to partake of
their annual fish dinner. Covers were laid for thirty-five gentlemen."
For our own part, we consider the Ministers did not evince their usual
good policy in choosing so late a period as September; the Whitebait
being finer eating in July or August; so that their "annual fish
dinner" must rather be regarded as a sort of prandial wind-up of the
parliamentary session than as a specimen of refined epicurism.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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