Club Life of London, Vol. 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th CenturiesTimbs, John
History
Club Life of London, Vol. 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th Centuries
Timbs, John
Clubs -- England -- London; Literary landmarks -- England -- London; London (England) -- Social life and customs
Every year, the approach of the close of the Parliamentary Session is
indicated by what is termed "the Ministerial Fish Dinner," in which
Whitebait forms a prominent dish; and Cabinet Ministers are the
company. The Dinner takes place at a principal tavern, usually at
Greenwich, but sometimes at Blackwall: the dining-room is decorated
for the occasion, which partakes of a state entertainment. Formerly,
however, the Ministers went down the river from Whitehall in an
Ordnance gilt barge: now, a government steamer is employed. The origin
of this annual festivity is told as follows. On the banks of Dagenham
Lake or Reach, in Essex, many years since, there stood a cottage,
occupied by a princely merchant named Preston, a baronet of Scotland
and Nova Scotia, and sometime M.P. for Dover. He called it his
"fishing cottage," and often in the spring he went thither, with a
friend or two, as a relief to the toils of parliamentary and
mercantile duties. His most frequent guest was the Right Hon. George
Rose, Secretary of the Treasury, and an Elder Brother of the Trinity
House. Many a day did these two worthies enjoy at Dagenham Reach; and
Mr. Rose once intimated to Sir Robert, that Mr. Pitt, of whose
friendship they were both justly proud, would, no doubt, delight in
the comfort of such a retreat. A day was named, and the Premier was
invited; and he was so well pleased with his reception at the "fishing
cottage"--they were all two if not three bottle men--that, on taking
leave, Mr. Pitt readily accepted an invitation for the following year.
For a few years, the Premier continued a visitor to Dagenham, and was
always accompanied by Mr. George Rose. But the distance was
considerable; the going and coming were somewhat inconvenient for the
First Minister of the Crown. Sir Robert Preston, however, had his
remedy, and he proposed that they should in future dine nearer London.
Greenwich was suggested: we do not hear of Whitebait in the Dagenham
dinners, and its introduction, probably, dates from the removal to
Greenwich. The party of three was now increased to four; Mr. Pitt
being permitted to bring Lord Camden. Soon after, a fifth guest was
invited--Mr. Charles Long, afterwards Lord Farnborough. All were still
the guests of Sir Robert Preston; but, one by one, other notables were
invited,--all Tories--and, at last, Lord Camden considerately
remarked, that, as they were all dining at a tavern, it was but fair
that Sir Robert Preston should be relieved from the expense. It was
then arranged that the dinner should be given, as usual, by Sir Robert
Preston, that is to say, at his invitation; and he insisted on still
contributing a buck and champagne: the rest of the charges were
thenceforth defrayed by the several guests; and, on this plan, the
meeting continued to take place annually till the death of Mr. Pitt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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