Cocoa and Chocolate: Their History from Plantation to ConsumerKnapp, Arthur William
History
Cocoa and Chocolate: Their History from Plantation to Consumer
Knapp, Arthur William
Chocolate; Cocoa
Cacao butter runs hot from the presses as an amber-coloured oil, and
after nitration, sets to a pale golden yellow wax-like fat. The butter,
which the pharmacist sells, is sometimes white and odourless, having
been bleached and deodorized. The butter as produced is always pale
yellow in colour, with a semi-crystalline or granular fracture and an
agreeable taste and odour resembling cocoa or chocolate.
Cacao butter has such remarkable keeping properties (which would appear
to depend on the aromatic substances which it contains), that a myth has
arisen that it will keep for ever. The fable finds many believers even
in scientific circles; thus W.H. Johnson, in the _Imperial Institute
Handbook_ on _Cocoa_, states that: "When pure, it has the peculiar
property of not becoming rancid, however long it may be kept." Whilst
this overstates the case, we find that under suitable conditions cacao
butter will remain fresh and good for several years. Cacao butter has
rather a low melting point (90 deg. F.), so that whilst it is a hard, almost
brittle, solid at ordinary temperatures, it melts readily when in
contact with the human body (blood heat 98 deg. F). This property, together
with its remarkable stability, makes it useful for ointments, pomades,
suppositories, pessaries and other pharmaceutical preparations; it also
explains why actors have found it convenient for the removal of grease
paint. The recognition of the value of cacao butter for cosmetic
purposes dates from very early days; thus in Colmenero de Ledesma's
_Curious Treatise on the Nature and Quality of Chocolate_ (printed at
the Green Dragon, 1685), we read: "That they draw from the cacao a great
quantity of butter, which they use to make their faces shine, which I
have seen practised in the Indies by the Spanish women born there."
This, evidently, was one way of shining in society.
Cacao butter has been put to many other uses, thus it has been employed
in the preparation of perfumes, but the great bulk of the cacao butter
produced is used up by the chocolate maker. For making chocolate it is
ideal, and the demand for it for this purpose is so great that
substitutes have been found and offered for sale. Until recently these
fats, coconut stearine and others, could be ignored by the reputable
chocolate makers as the confection produced by their use was inferior to
true chocolate both in taste and in keeping properties. In recent times
the oils and fats of tropical nuts and fruits have been thoroughly
investigated in the eager search for new fats, and new substitutes, such
as illipe butter, have been introduced, the properties of which closely
resemble those of cacao butter.
For the information of chemists we may state that the analytical figures
for genuine cacao butter, as obtained in the cocoa factory, are as
follow:
ANALYTICAL FIGURES FOR CACAO BUTTER.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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