Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The town that grew up around these embassies is one of the most
extraordinary towns in creation. First composed of a few Galatiotes who
followed their several protectors into the wilderness, it has continued
ever since to receive accretions from the various nationalities of
Europe and Asia until it has become a perfect babel, faintly Italian
in appearance but actually no more Italian than Turkish, no more
Turkish than Greek, no more Greek than anything else you please. Half a
dozen larger worlds and nobody knows how many lesser ones live there,
inextricably intermingled, yet somehow remaining miraculously distinct.
There is, to be sure, a considerable body of Levantines—of those, namely,
who have mixed—but even they are a peculiar people. The fact gives Pera
society, so far as it exists, a bewildering hydra-headedness. The court
is not the centre of things in the sense that European courts are. The
Palace ladies do not receive, and it is an unheard-of thing for the
Sultan to go to a private house, while in other ways there are profound
causes of separation between the ruling race and the non-Moslem elements
of the empire. By the very constitution of the country the Armenians,
the Greeks, the Hebrews, and other fractions of the population form
communities apart. Even the surprisingly large European colony has
historic reasons for tending to divide into so many “nations.” These have
little in common with the foreign colonies of Berlin, Paris, or Rome. Not
students and people of leisure but merchants and missionaries make up
the better part of the family that each embassy presides over in a sense
unknown in Western cities. The days are gone by when the protection of
the embassies had the literal meaning that once attached to many a garden
wall. But the ambassadors cling to the privileges and exemptions granted
them by early treaties, and through the quarter that grew up around their
gates the Sultan himself passes almost as a stranger.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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