Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
These were they who lent, perhaps, the most local colour to that Minor
Asiatic youth. They were daughters of Armenia, for the most part. And
I sometimes think that if William Watson had enjoyed my opportunities
he never would have written “The Purple East.” Surely he never squirmed
under an Armenian kiss, which in my day partook both of sniffing and of
biting and which left the victim’s cheek offensively red and moist. Yet
how can I remember with anything but gratitude the kindly neighbours to
whom foreign children, coming and going between the houses that in those
distant days made a small Anglo-American colony in upper Scutari, were
always a source of interest? For some mysterious reason that is buried
in the heart of exiled Anglo-Saxondom, we really knew wonderfully little
about our neighbours. We never played with their children or entered
other than strangers the world outside our garden wall. Nor was it
because our neighbours were unwilling to meet us half-way. They paid us
the compliment of naming a certain place of amusement which existed in
our vicinity the American Theatre, hoping thereby to gain our patronage.
But I fear this hope met with no response. At any rate, I never came
nearer the unknown delights of the American Theatre than the top of our
garden wall, from which I remember once listening entranced to such
strains of music as never issued from our serious piano. I recognised
them years afterward, with a jump, in an opera of Suppé. I have also
lived to learn that Scutari, or the part of it where we lived, is a sort
of Armenian Parnassus, perhaps even an Armenian Montmartre, given over
entirely to the muses. Emancipated Armenian ladies, they tell me, do
such unheard-of things as to walk, on their own two feet, vast distances
over the hills of Asia with emancipated Armenian gentlemen in long locks
and flowing neckties; and imperishable Armenian odes have celebrated the
beauties of Baghlar Bashi and Selamsîz.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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