Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The latest of our four mosques was erected by the sultana who, being by
birth a Greek, took away San Francesco in Galata from the Conventuals.
At least that lady was the builder if she was the mother of Ahmed III as
well as of Moustafa II. She atoned, however, for that eminently feminine
piece of high-handedness by her mosque in Scutari. It is popularly
called the Valideh Jedid, the mosque of the New Mother, and it belongs
to that early period of Turkish rococo which Ahmed III borrowed from
Louis XV. For the mosque of a new mother, the style is admirably adapted.
It is to be seen at its most characteristic in the fountain of marble
embroideries which stands outside the north gate of the mosque yard. A
second fountain stands beside the first, of the sort where cups of water
are filled for passers-by. Then comes the tomb of the foundress, who
lies like the Kyöprülüs under a skeleton dome of bronze. And you should
see the roses that make a little garden around her in May. They are an
allusion, I suppose, to her graceful Turkish name, which may be less
gracefully rendered as Rose Attar of Spring. The mosque yard has no great
interest—except on Fridays, when a fair is established along its outer
edge. But I must draw attention to the bird-house, like a cross-section
of a little mosque with two minarets, on the façade of the forecourt, and
to the small marble beehive that balances it. This forecourt is the only
one of its kind in Scutari. As for the mosque itself, you may find the
windows too coquettish even for a New Mother. For myself I rather like
their flower-pots and flowers, though they clearly belong to a day other
than that of the old window jewellery of Sinan’s time. The green tiles
about the _mihrab_ also betray a symptom of decadence in that they are of
a repeating pattern. But the chief point of the mosque is one to which I
drew attention a good many pages back, namely its stencilling. Being a
native of Scutari, I can without presumption recommend to all Ministers
of Pious Foundations that they preserve that old painting as long as the
last flake of it hangs to the ceiling, and that before the last flake
falls they learn the secret of its effect. So may they in days to come
restore to Rüstem Pasha and Sultan Ahmed and Yeni Jami a part of their
lost dignity.
[Illustration: Interior of the Valideh Jedid
In the gallery at the left is the imperial tribune]
[Illustration: The Ahmedieh]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account