Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
[Illustration: A jetting fountain in the garden of Halil Edhem Bey]
Almost every Turkish garden contains visible water of some sort, which
at its simplest is nothing but a shallow marble pool. In the centre of
the pool is sometimes a fountain which I always think of with regret when
there is pointed out for my admiration a too fat marble infant struggling
with a too large marble fish, or a dwarf holding an umbrella over its
head. This fountain consists of nothing but a series of jets, generally
on varying levels, set in a circle of those marble stalactites—here
should one call them stalagmites?—which are so familiar in Oriental
architecture. Nothing could be simpler, apparently, but nothing could
combine more perfectly all the essentials of a jetting fountain. There
is another fountain which deals even more delicately with the sound
of water. This is a dripping fountain, set always against a wall or a
bank. It is a tall marble tablet, decorated, perhaps, with low reliefs
of fruit and flowers, on the face of which a series of tiny basins are
carved. I have seen one where water started at the top from the eyes
of two doves and trickled into the first little basin, from which it
overflowed into two below, then back into one, and so on till it came
into three widening semi-circular pools at the bottom. _Selsebil_ is the
name of this fountain in Turkish, which is the name of a fountain in
Paradise; and a fountain of Paradise it may be indeed with all its little
streams atinkle. A more delightful ornament for a garden does not exist,
being equally adapted for the end of a vista or for a narrow space; and
it requires the smallest supply of water.
[Illustration: A _selsebil_ at Kandilli]
[Illustration: A _selsebil_ of Halil Edhem Bey]
The Turkish architects have not scorned more imposing effects when they
had the means, as did Ahmed III at Kiat Haneh. The marble cascades into
which he turned the Barbyses are called _chaghleyan_—something which
resounds. I have seen a smaller _chaghleyan_ in a garden on the Asiatic
shore of the Bosphorus. This is a series of descending pools, one
emptying into another till the water finally runs into a large round
marble basin. The water starts, between two curved flights of stone
steps, from three marble shells in the retaining wall of a terrace; and
from the terrace an arbour looks down the perspective of mirroring pools
to an alley that leads from the last basin away between arching trees.
This beautiful old garden belongs to the Turkish painter Ressam-Halil
Pasha, who studied in Paris at a time when the plastic arts were still
anathema among the Turks. In his studio are figure studies, made
during his student days, which even now he could scarcely exhibit in
Constantinople; and it would be thought a scandalous thing if he tried to
get Turkish models to sit for such pictures. When he heard where I came
from he asked if there were in America a painter called Mr. Cox, who had
studied with him under Gérôme.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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