Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Constantinople is, I believe, the sole diplomatic post to which summer
residences are attached. Each envoy also has a launch for keeping
in touch with the Sublime Porte, fifteen miles away. The local
legend is that the birds which are so characteristic a feature of the
Bosphorus—halcyons are they?—for ever skimming up and down just above
the surface of the water, are the souls of the Phanariote dragomans
who used to go back and forth so often between Therapia and Stamboul.
A despatch-boat, as well, is at the disposal of each ambassador except
the Persian. These dignities came about very naturally by reason of the
epidemics and disorders which used to break out in the city, the distance
of Constantinople from other European resorts, and the generosity of the
sultans. The English, French, and German governments all own beautiful
estates at Therapia, presented to them by different sultans, while the
Russians are magnificently established at the neighbouring village of
Büyük Dereh. Their great hillside park is a perfect wood, so dense in
summer that the water is scarcely visible from it. The Italians also make
_villeggiatura_ at Therapia, the Austrians and Persians being installed
farther down the Bosphorus. Our ambassador is the sole envoy of his
rank obliged to hunt up hired quarters, though even some of the small
legations occupy their own summer homes. Should Congress ever persuade
itself that diplomatic dignity is a thing worthy to be upheld, or should
some sultan present us with one of the old estates still available, I
hope we shall build an embassy, like the one the French occupied so long,
in keeping with its surroundings and not such a monstrosity as other
Powers have put up. The charming old French embassy, which originally
belonged to the famous Ypsilanti family, was one of the sights of the
Bosphorus until it burned up in 1913. The grounds are not so large as
some of the other embassy gardens, but none of the others seem to me so
happily placed or so sapiently laid out. A bridge led from the house to
the first terrace, whose trees and flowers irregularly follow the curve
of the hillside. A formal avenue and steep wood paths mount to the grassy
upper terrace, commanding between noble pines and beeches the mouth of
the Black Sea.
[Illustration: The upper terrace of the French embassy garden at
Therapia]
[Illustration: The garden of the Russian embassy at Büyük Dereh]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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