Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The number of those which preserve even a remnant of the old interior
decoration is much more limited. One of them is a kiosk at Emirgyan
belonging to the _Sherifs_ of Mecca. And it is quaint to see what an
air, both whimsical and distinguished, that faded eighteenth-century
decoration gains from the ugly modern furniture set about a fountain
in the cross-shaped saloon of those descendants of the Prophet. The
most complete example of the work of the same period is the house on
Arnaout-kyöi Point belonging to an Armenian family, unmistakable by
its projecting upper stories and the agreeable irregularity of its
silhouette. Passers along the quay may catch a glimpse of a high rococo
ceiling in rose and gold. But a glimpse of a more perfect ceiling is
to be caught by any one who rows up the Asiatic shore from Anadolou
Hissar—if he be not too contemptuous of certain crazy wooden piles which
his caïque will pass.
[Illustration: An eighteenth-century villa at Arnaout-kyöi]
This ceiling, and the whole room to which it belongs, is the most
precious thing of its kind in all Constantinople, if not in all the
world. The design of the room is that of the earlier Broussa mosques, a
T-shaped arrangement with the top of the T in the garden and three square
bays, slightly raised above a central square, leaning out on piles above
the water. At the intersection of the two axes stands a fountain, with
a cluster of marble stalactites rising from a filigree marble pedestal,
in the centre of a shallow square tank of marble. On the garden side,
where the door is, there are no windows, but a series of cupboards and
niches of some light wood once delicately inlaid with wavy stems and
pointed leaves. On the water side an unbroken succession of windows,
not very tall and set at the level of the divan, look north and west and
south, and bring the Bosphorus like a great sparkling frieze into the
pavilion. They also make the water light, by reflection, the upper part
of the room. At the height of the window tops a shelf, slightly carved
and gilded, runs entirely around the walls. Above that rises a frieze of
painted panels in which tall sprays of lilies and other flowers stand in
blue and white jars, each in a pointed arch and each framed by garlands
of tiny conventionalised flowers. And above all hangs a golden ceiling,
domed over the fountain, over each bay hollowed into an oblong recess,
lovely with latticework and stalactites and carved bosses and Moorish
traceries of interlaced stars, and strange border loops of a blue that
echoes the jars below or the sea outside, and touches of a deep green,
and exquisite little flowers, all shimmering in a light of restless water.
[Illustration: The golden room of Kyöprülü Hüsseïn Pasha]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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