Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Nothing is left now of this garden, or the palace to which it belonged,
or the Gate of the Cannon, after which they were named. A disastrous fire
and the building of the Bulgarian railway long made a waste of the tip of
Seraglio Point, until in 1913 it was turned into a public park. Seraglio
Point is an Italian misnomer for the Turkish _Seraï Bournou_—Palace
Point. But a palace and gardens remain, not far away, and to them has
been transferred the title of Top Kapou—Cannon Gate. Although this is now
the oldest palace in Constantinople, the name of _Eski Seraï_—the Old
Palace—belongs to the site of that older one which the Conqueror built
on the hill of the War Department. He was the first, however, to set
apart Seraglio Point as a pleasure-ground for his family, and he built
the _Chinili-Kyöshk_, now of the Imperial Museum. His son and grandson
built other pavilions of their own, but it was not until the reign of
his great-grandson Süleïman I that the court was definitely transferred
to the Seraglio. As in the Palace of Celestial Purity in the Forbidden
City, no woman had up to that time been permitted to sleep there. And
it is perhaps significant that the decadence of the empire began very
soon after the transfer of the harem to the new palace. From that time
on the Old Palace, whose grounds Süleïman greatly curtailed to make
room for his two principal mosques, was reserved for the families of
deceased sultans, while the new palace was continually enlarged and
beautified. Something legendary attaches to it in the eyes of the common
people, who are pleasantly inclined to confuse King Solomon, the friend
of the Queen of Sheba, and a great personage in Mohammedan folklore,
with their own Sultan Süleïman. A soldier from Asia Minor related to
me once how Sultan Solomon sent out four birds to the four quarters of
heaven to discover the most perfect site for a palace, and how they came
back with the news that no place was to be found in the world so airy
or so beautiful as Seraglio Point. He accordingly built the palace of
Top Kapou. And beneath it he hollowed out a space reaching far under the
sea in which he planted a forest of marble pillars. I cannot vouch for
the last part of the story, but I am inclined to agree with the Sultan’s
birds. Certainly the garden of the Seraglio has its superb situation
between the Golden Horn and the Marmora, its crescent panorama of cities,
seas, and islands, and its mementoes of the past, to put it alone among
the gardens of the world. Acropolis of ancient Byzantium, pleasance of
Roman, Greek, and Ottoman emperors for sixteen hundred years, it is more
haunted by associations than any other garden in Europe. One could make
a library alone of the precious things its triple walls enclose: the
column of Claudius Gothicus, the oldest Roman monument in the city; the
church of St. Irene, originally built by Constantine, whose mosaics look
down as Justinian and Leo left them on the keys of conquered cities, the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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