Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Nothing is more characteristic of late afternoons in Ramazan than
the preparations for the evening meal which preoccupy all Moslems,
particularly those who work with their hands. As the sun nears the
horizon, fires are lighted, tables are spread, bread is broken, water
is poured out, cigarettes are rolled, and hands are lifted half-way to
the mouth, in expectation of the signal that gives liberty to eat.
This breaking of the daytime fast is called _iftar_, which means feast
or rejoicing, and is an institution in itself. The true _iftar_ begins
with _hors-d’œuvres_ of various sorts—olives, cheese, and preserves,
with sweet _simits_, which are rings of hard pastry, and round flaps of
hot unleavened bread, called _pideh_. Then should come a vegetable soup,
and eggs cooked with cheese or _pastîrma_—the sausage of the country—and
I know not how many other dainties peculiar to the season, served in
bewildering variety and washed down, it may be, with water from the
sacred well Zemzem in Mecca. Any Turkish dinner is colossal, but _iftar_
in a great house is well nigh fatal to a foreigner. Foreigners have the
better opportunity to become acquainted with them because Ramazan is the
proverbial time for dinner-parties. The rich keep open house throughout
the month, while the poorest make it a point to entertain their
particular friends at _iftar_. The last meal of the night also has a name
of its own, _sohour_, which is derived from the word for dawn. Watchmen
patrol the streets with drums to wake people up in time for it, while
another cannon announces when the fast begins again.
In a primitive community like that of the Prophet’s Arabia and in a
climate where people anyway sleep during much of the day, Ramazan might
be comparatively easy to keep. Under modern conditions, and especially
in a town containing so large an alien population as Constantinople, it
is not surprising that the fast is somewhat intermittently observed. The
more Europeanised Turks make no pretence of fasting, to the no small
scandal of their servants. Others strengthen their resolution by an
occasional bite in private or a secret cigarette. Every now and then
some such person is arrested and fined, for church and state are still
officially one in Turkey, and the _Sheriat_ is a system of Blue Laws that
would leave very little room for individual judgment if it succeeded in
altogether having its way. Those who are most conscientious are those
upon whom the fast falls most heavily—peasants and workmen who cannot
turn day and night about. So complete a derangement of all the habits of
life naturally has its effect. No one who employs Turks or does business
with them can get anything done, and tempers habitually mild grow
strained as the month proceeds. Thus in one way or another does Ramazan
continue to colour the whole life of the cosmopolitan city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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