Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Between the two plays intervene a couple of hours or so of singing and
dancing that are to many the meat in the sandwich. These entertainments
are also highly characteristic of the city that straddles two continents.
The costume of the performers is supposably European, although no Western
_almée_ would consent to be encumbered with the skirts and sleeves of
her Armenian sister, or let her locks hang so ingenuously down her back.
She would also be more scrupulous with regard to her colour schemes.
Whatever the tint of their costume, the _ballerine_ of Stamboul cherish
an ineradicable partiality for pink stockings. As feminine charm
increases, to the eye of an Oriental admirer, in direct proportion to the
avoirdupois of the charmer, the effect is sometimes startling.
The entertainment offered by these ladies is more of the East than of the
West. It is a combination of song and dance, accompanied by strings and
the clapping of the castanet. The music is even more monotonous, in the
literal sense of the word, than that of the fine lute. To the tyro one
song sounds exactly like another, each beginning on the same high note
and each _glissando_ to the same low one. And you are inclined to protest
that a lady suffering from so cruel a cold should never be permitted
to leave her room, much less appear in pink stockings at midnight on
a ramshackle wooden stage. But there is a melancholy passion in those
endless love-songs that haunts the memory—at least of most of those
present, who listen in the silence of perfect appreciation. The dancing
into which each song dies away has been a little more tampered with by
the West. While the basis of it is the Arab _danse du ventre_, it is a
_danse du ventre_ chastened by the cult of the toe. What there may be of
grossness about it is pleasantly tempered for an occasional spectator by
the personal equation. I remember watching, once, an _almée_ who must
have been in her prime before many of her public were in their cradles.
But they had grown up in her tradition, and cries of “One more!” greeted
each effort of her poor old cracked voice. There was nothing pitiable
about it. The audience had a frank affection for her, independent of her
overripe enchantments, and she danced terrible dances for them, eyes half
shut, with a grandmotherly indulgence that entirely took away from the
nature of what she was doing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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