Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
One assembly of Easter week which still is to be seen in something of its
pristine glory is the fair of Balîklî. This takes place on the Friday
and lasts through Sunday. The scene of it is the monastery of Balîklî,
outside the land walls of Stamboul. It is rather curious that the Turkish
name of so ancient a place should have superseded even among the Greeks
its original appellation. The Byzantine emperors had a villa there
and several of them built churches in the vicinity. The name Balîklî,
however, which might be translated as the Fishy Place, comes from the
legend every one knows of the Greek monk who was frying fish when news
was brought him that the Turks had taken the city. He refused to believe
it, saying he would do so if his fish jumped out of the frying-pan—not
into the fire, but into the spring beside him. Which they promptly did.
Since when the life-giving spring, as it is called, has been populated by
fish that look as if they were half fried. The thing on Balîklî day is to
make a pilgrimage to the pool of these miraculous fish, to drink of the
water in which they swim, to wash one’s hands and face and hair in it,
and to take some of it away in a bottle. The spring is at one end of a
dark chapel, half underground, into which the crowd squeezes in batches.
After receiving the benefits of the holy water you kiss the icons in the
chapel. A priest in an embroidered stole, who holds a small cross in his
hand, will then make the holy sign with it upon your person and offer you
the cross and his hand as well to kiss, in return for which you drop a
coin into the slot of a big box beside him. Candles are also to be had
for burning at the various icons. The greater number of these, however,
are in the monastery church hard by. And so many candles burn before
them that attendants go about every few minutes, blow out the candles,
and throw them into a box, to make room for new candles. There are also
priests to whom you tell your name, which they add to a long list, and in
return for the coin you leave behind you they pray for blessing upon the
name. All this is interesting to watch, by reason of the great variety of
the pilgrims and the unconscious lingering of paganism in their faith.
And, while there is a hard commercial side to it all, you must remember
that a hospital and other charitable institutions largely profit thereby.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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