Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Until this time the old pointed arch had been preferred, though, as we
have seen, the rounded shell of the Renaissance had already made its
appearance. But now round or broken arches began to be the order of
the day; and so great richness of detail could only degenerate into
the baroque. Yet I have bad taste enough to like, sometimes, even the
out-and-out baroque. There is a little fountain, for instance, in the
Asiatic suburb of Kanlîja, with a florid arch and rather heavy traceries
and four very Dutch-looking tiles set into the wall above them, which I
think is delightful. Long after photographing it I came across some more
of those tiles in the imperial tribune of the mosque built in Scutari
by Moustafa III, which gave me a clew to the date of the fountain.
And after that I was fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of the
gentleman whose summer _valî_ lies across the road from the fountain, and
he told me that the fountain was built by the Sheï’h ül Islam of Moustafa
III. There is, too, a fountain at Emirgyan, in front of the Khedival
garden, which, for all its baroque lines, seems to me to terminate a
vista very happily. But I do not hesitate to add that few wall fountains
built since the middle of the eighteenth century are worth any attention.
* * * * *
We can hardly call it a discovery that the architects made when they
first detached a street fountain from the wall and made something more
monumental out of it. The thing had already been done indoors and in the
courts of mosques. The earliest specimens, however, show their evolution
very clearly. They are nothing but wall fountains applied to a cube of
masonry. I suppose the religious associations of the _shadrîvan_ kept its
tradition from being followed, but with experience freedom was gained in
the treatment of the detached fountain. Typical of its kind is a fountain
in the waterside grove of plane-trees at Chibouklou, to which Ibrahim
Pasha, the Grand Vizier of Ahmed III, gave the name of Feïzabad—Place of
the Abundant Blessing of God. A great oblong pool reflects the trees,
and nearer the Bosphorus is a raised space of the kind the Turks call
a turf sofa. On one side of it a concave tablet, carved with a lamp
swinging from a chain, indicates the direction of prayer. On the other
stands a simple marble fountain, bearing three chronograms of 1133 or
1721. Twenty-eight Mehmed was then in Paris, and the new fashion was not
yet launched in fountains. An early and a very happy experiment in that
fashion adorns Ahmed’s park at Kiat Haneh. But the model and masterpiece
of this little golden age is the great fountain at Top Haneh, beside the
mosque of Don Quixote. It lacks, alas, the domed roof and broad eaves
that Melling represents in one of his pictures. Moreover a trolley post
has been planted squarely at its most conspicuous corner, while ugly iron
fences attack two of its sides; and the War Department thinks nothing
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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