Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Powerful as the fortress was in its day, and interesting as it remains
as a monument to the energy and resource of its builder, it never played
a great part in the martial history of the Turks. The Bosphorus was not
then the important highway it is now. After the capture of Constantinople
the castle degenerated into a garrison of Janissaries and a state prison
of less importance than the Seven Towers. Not a few passages of romance,
however, attach to that diminished period. More than one European
diplomat spent a season of repose within the walls of Cut-Throat Castle,
in days when international law was less finical on such points than
it since has grown. And it formed a residence less agreeable than the
present country embassies, if we may judge from the account that has come
down to us of one such _villeggiatura_. This was written by a young
Bohemian attaché who spent two years of the sixteenth century in enforced
retirement at Roumeli Hissar. His name, Wenceslas Wratislaw, with those
of other prisoners, may still be seen in the stone of a little chamber
high in the north tower. In the same tower, commanding a magnificent
view, the Conqueror lived while preparing his great siege. Whether this,
or the angular tower by the water, or some other donjon of the Bosphorus
was the Black Tower which has so unsavoury a name in Turkish annals I
have never quite made up my mind.
To-day the castle has outlived even that period of usefulness. The true
cut-throats skulk in the bare hills at the mouth of the Black Sea, while
the ambassadors—with the single exception, it is true, of our own—pass
their summers in pleasant villas presented to them by different Sultans.
As for the towers, they survive only to add their picturesqueness to
the narrowest part of the Bosphorus, to flaunt ivy and even sizable
trees from their battlements, and to afford a habitation to bats and
carrion-crows. The last vestige of military uses clinging to them is the
pseudo-classic guard-house that crouches under the waterside keep. The
walls at least subserve the purpose, however, of sheltering a quarter of
our village. One of our thoroughfares enters the double gate by the north
tower, descends a breakneck alley of steps lattice-bordered and hung
with vine, pauses between a fountain, a ruined mosque, and a monstrous
mulberry-tree, and finally emerges upon the quay by a low arch that was
once the boat entrance to the sea tower. There is to a prying foreigner
some inheritance of other days in the inhabitants of this hanging suburb.
They are all of the ruling race and there is about them something
intrenched and aloof. The very dogs seem to belong to an older, a less
tolerant, dispensation. The Constantinople street dog, notwithstanding
the reputation that literature has attempted to fasten upon him, is in
general the mildest of God’s creatures. But the dog of Cut-Throat Castle
is quite another character. He is a distinct reactionary, lifting up his
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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