Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Constantinople is finished! So a reactionary impressionist groaned
to himself on a certain summer day—to be precise, on the 24th of
July, 1908—when the amazing truth became known that the constitution,
suppressed thirty-two years before, had been re-established.
Constitutions were well enough in their place, but their place was not
Constantinople. A Constantinople at whose gate your Shakespeare was not
taken from you as being a perilous and subversive book, a Constantinople
through whose custom-house you could not bribe your way, a Constantinople
which you might explore ungreeted by a derisive “_Gyaour!_” or a casual
stone, a Constantinople of mosques open to the infidel without money
and without price, a Constantinople wherein you were free to walk at
night without a lantern, a Constantinople indifferent to passports or
to ladies’ veils, a Constantinople where it was possible to paint in
the streets, to meet and see off steamers, to post a local letter—and,
what is more, receive one—a Constantinople without a censor, a spy, or a
dog, might be a Constantinople of a kind; but it would not be the true
Constantinople. It could never be the impenetrable old Constantinople
that lent a certain verisimilitude to stories like “Paul Patoff” and
made it possible for a romantic Gladstone to be taken seriously at his
most romantic moments. Violated of its mystery, laid open to the deadly
levelling of Western civilisation, what could save it from becoming a
Constantinople of straight streets, of pseudo-classic architecture,
of glaring lights, of impatient tram and telephone bells, of the
death-dealing motors that Abd ül Hamid would never allow, of the terrible
tourists—the German _Liebespaar_, the British old maid, the American
mother and daughter—who insist on making one place exactly like another?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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