Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
So the day passed, with long stops, with short advances, with pangs
of hunger which a disgusted Orient Express—itself some nine hours
late—reluctantly consented to appease, with melodramatic rumours of
battle, and with a final sight of soldiers making a thin black ant trail
over a bare hill. Night came upon us in the green valley of Sparta
Kouleh, at the end of which a gleam of the Marmora was visible, and the
Bithynian Olympus ethereal with snow. A bonfire reddened the twilight in
front of us, soldiers were singing not far away, frogs or tree-toads made
a silver music in the distance. To what grim things, I wondered as we so
mysteriously waited, did nature make this soft antithesis? At last a long
train, fifty-seven empty freight-cars, rumbled out of the dark from the
direction of the city. We then started on again, stopping only to take on
and let off officers at way stations, and reached town, fourteen and a
half hours late, at half past ten.
Expectation, after a checkered approach, had been raised to a pitch. But
Constantinople proved a most singularly beleaguered city. I perceived
that when I saw a couple of Macedonian officers get off the train with
me. I perceived it again when I passed the customs with an unaccustomed
ease and drove away through streets that gave no hint of siege. Still
more clearly did I perceive it during the three long days that followed
my arrival. Beleaguering there was, for rumour peopled the fields of
Thrace with advancing thousands, and Hüsseïn Hüssnü Pasha, commander of
operations at the front, issued manifestoes. To the garrison he offered
immunity on condition of their taking a solemn oath of obedience before
the Sheï’h ül Islam. To those of the populace not implicated in the late
uprising he promised security of person and property. And both apparently
made haste to put themselves on the right side. Deputation after
deputation went out to the enemy’s camp in token of surrender. The War
Office made plans for provisioning the invaders. Parliament assembled at
San Stefano in the shadow of the Macedonian camp, and the fleet followed
suit. At the same time the air was tense with the feeling that first came
to me when the porter of my sleeping-car called that unknown passenger at
Nisch. What was going to happen? It was an indication of the colour of
people’s thoughts that the outgoing steamers were crowded during those
days, and panics ran through the town like rumours. Some one would shout:
“They are coming!” The streets would instantly fill with the rush of
feet, the clang of closing shutters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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