Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The first thing I saw there was a pair of white leggings on guard at a
gate. I went up to the sunburned soldier who wore them as to a long-lost
brother, and asked for news. My reception, I regret to confess, was not
too cordial. “Do not stop,” admonished the Macedonian. “If you have
business, do it and go. There is no danger, but the bridge is closed and
boats do not run. To-morrow everything will be the same as yesterday.” In
one respect, at least, he was right. The bridge was closed. Access not
only to Stamboul but to the great street of Galata was cut off by white
leggings. There was, accordingly, no chance of making the tunnel to Pera.
As my friends were divided as to their projects, I explored certain
noisome alleys leading back from the quay to see if I could reach the
street of steps climbing past the Genoese tower. On the way I met a party
of American tourists, hurrying for their steamer in charge of an embassy
_kavass_. They amusingly looked to an impressionist forgetful of his
partiality for the bottoms of boats as if they doubted whether they would
escape with their lives. Step Street luckily proved open. The shops,
however, were shut, and pedestrians were remarkably scarce. Moreover
most of them wore white leggings, or grey-blue ones. Young gentlemen so
apparelled, with rifles slung across their backs and cartridges festooned
about them, strolled up and down the streets or lolled in front of public
buildings. There was an engaging negligence about these picturesque
persons, who had an air of keeping an eye on things in spite of manifold
cigarettes. Rifles might pop desultorily in the distance, but there was
no doubt what had happened. The Macedonians had captured Constantinople.
[Illustration: Macedonian volunteers
Photograph by W. G. M. Edwards]
I went to the American Embassy to obtain details as to this historic
event. I found the gate guarded by cadets of the War College and
Macedonian Blues. One of the latter smoked cigarettes on the sidewalk
and scrutinised every one who passed. At a sign from him an approaching
group of marines was stopped and searched. A Turkish _hoja_ was even more
roughly handled, for his honourable cloth had been a favourite disguise
for political agitators. No one suspected of carrying weapons was let
by. The man in blue, it transpired, was one of many officers who escaped
during the mutiny and came back with the invading army as privates, or
so dressed for strategic reasons. As for news, it was remarkably meagre.
The Macedonians had occupied both banks of the Golden Horn early in the
morning and had encountered resistance at some of the barracks. There
were conflicting reports of the first shots being due to a mistake and of
treacherous flags of truce. At all events, the affair was not finished,
for every now and then we heard firing. But so far as any one knew there
had been no fight at Yîldîz.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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