Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Outside this inner citadel the fabled gardens descended to the sea.
Fabled they proved, indeed—as some city park, perhaps, though not so
neatly kept. A driveway, fabulously dusty, led between the massive
retaining wall and a miniature lake to Merassim Kiosque, a tawdry little
palace in an enclosure of its own which was built for William II of
Germany. I threaded a tortuous space, at one end of it not quite touching
the bastion of the Forbidden City, where a small iron door in the kiosk
faced a small iron door in the bastion. They had a potency, those small
iron doors, upon the imagination of a romantic impressionist. Beyond
stretched courts and stables, deserted save for a few last activities
of departure. A eunuch was giving shrill orders to a soldier. A drove
of buffaloes stood mild-eyed under a plane-tree, waiting to be driven
away. A horse whinnied in the silence. A cat lay blinking in the sun,
indifferent to the destinies of kings.
On a slope of thin shade farther on were grouped an ornate wooden
villa, a castellated porcelain factory, kennels where a few dogs yelped
miserably, and enclosures for all sorts of animals and birds. The one
really charming part of the park was the ravine behind Chira’an Palace,
cool with secular trees and the splash of water. Nightingales and strange
water-fowl had their habitation there, and some startled colts galloped
away as I descended a winding path. The look of the paths, neither wild
nor ordered, made me wonder again what four hundred gardeners did at
Yîldîz. I suppose they did what any gardener would do whose master never
came to see his garden. Chalets and summer-houses with red seals on their
doors stood among the trees. I went into an open lodge beside a gateway.
A bed was torn to pieces, clothes and papers strewed the floor, a cut
loaf and an open bottle stood on a shelf as if dropped there in some
hasty flight.
There was a point on the hillside whence a long view opened—of domed
Stamboul and cypressed Scutari reaching toward each other across an
incredible blue, with dim Asiatic mountains in the background. From the
height above he must often have looked out on that scene who brooded for
thirty-three years, in silence and darkness, behind the walls his terror
raised. So noble against sea and sky, so vastly spreading, so mysterious
in its invisible activities, the city must have been as redoubtable
to him as his bastioned hilltop was to the city. And I could not help
imagining how, during the days so lately passed, as he watched the city
that feared his power and whose power he feared, sounds must have come up
to him: of the foolish firing he ordered for the 13th of April; of a more
sinister firing eleven days later, when he waited for his deluded and
officerless soldiers, shut up in their barracks, to save his throne; of
that last firing, for him the sound of doom, proclaiming to his face the
joy of the distant city that his power over it was no more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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