Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The hordes from the Black Sea made no more than their distant impression,
perhaps no less dramatic for being so; and for them Constantinople
can have been but a fugitive panorama of cypresses and minarets and
waving handkerchiefs. They passed by without stopping to the ports of
the Marmora. Other hordes, however, poured into the city so fast that
no troop train or barracks could hold them. Hundreds, even thousands,
of them camped every night under the mosaics of St. Sophia. At first
they all wore the new hay-coloured uniform of Young Turkey. Then older
reservists began to appear in the dark blue piped with red of Abd ül
Hamid’s time. Meanwhile, conscripts and volunteers of all ages and types
and costumes filled the streets. It took a more experienced eye than
mine, generally, to pick out a Greek or an Armenian marching to war
for the first time in the Turkish ranks. The fact is that a Roumelian
or seaboard Turk looks more European than an Anatolian Christian.
Nevertheless, the diversity of the empire was made sufficiently manifest
to the most inexperienced eye. The Albanians were always a striking
note. Hundreds of them flocked back from who knows where, in their white
skull-caps and close-fitting white clothes braided with black. They are
leaner and often taller than the Turks, who incline to be thick-bodied;
fairer, too, as a rule, and keener-eyed. Something like them are the
Laz, who are slighter and darker men but no less fierce. They have the
name of being able to ride farther in less time than any other tribe
of Asia Minor. Their uniforms were a khaki adaptation of their tribal
dress—zouave-jackets, trousers surprisingly full at the waist and
surprisingly tight about the leg, and pointed hoods with long flaps
knotted into a sort of turban. This comfortable Laz hood, with slight
variations of cut and colour, has been adapted for the whole army. I
shall always remember it as a symbol of that winter war. Certain swarthy
individuals from the Russian or Persian frontiers also made a memorable
figure, in long black hairy sleeveless cloaks and tall caps of black
lamb’s wool, tied about with some white rag. They gave one the impression
that they might be very uncomfortable customers to meet in a blind alley
on a dark night. These gentlemen, none the less, wore in their caps, like
a cockade, what might have seemed to the vulgar a paint-brush, but what
was in reality the tooth-brush of their country. Last of all the Syrians
began to appear. They were very noticeably different from the broader,
flatter, fairer Anatolian type. On their heads they wore the scarf of
their people, bound about with a thick black cord, and on cold days some
of them would drape a _bournous_ over their khaki.
[Illustration: Recruits]
[Illustration: Hand in hand]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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