Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
On the other side lies a silent enclosure whose own day has come and
gone since the last emperor passed through the Golden Gate. This is the
fortress of the Seven Towers—three of which were built by the Turkish
conqueror and connected by curtains with the city wall. In the towers are
passages and cells as black as the subterranean maze of Blacherne, and
they were used for the same purpose. Many are the stories of captivity
in this high-walled place that have been told and remain to be told.
One of them is briefly legible, in Latin, in a stone of the southeast
tower, where it was cut by a Venetian in the seventeenth century. It used
even to be the fashion to clap an ambassador into prison there when war
broke out between his country and the Porte. Turkish state prisoners, of
course, perished there without number. And one sultan, Osman II, when he
was no more than eighteen, was barbarously put to death there in 1622.
And all that blood and bitterness, which was so desperately the whole
of reality for so many breathing men, is now but a pleasant quickening
of romance for the visitor who follows a lantern through the darkness
of the towers or who explores the battlements of the wall, grassy and
anemone-grown in the spring, from which a magnificent view stretches of
the sea and the city and the long line of ruined turrets marching up the
hill.
[Illustration: Outside the land walls]
If every ended drama of human greatness must come at last to a view,
the road around the land walls of Constantinople can do more for the
man who walks it than any such road I know. Other cities have walls,
it is true. Other walls have moats. Some of their moats contain water,
too, while this moat contains only water-wheels and vegetable-gardens.
And how much more greenly do the vegetables grow, I wonder, because of
all the dead men that have fallen under the ramparts? Other ramparts
wear as picturesque a verdure, and blossoming fruit-trees have the same
trick of setting them off in the spring. And cypresses are no monopoly
of Constantinople. But no such army of cypresses faces other walls, from
such a camp of strange grey stones. Nor in any Eternal City does water
play so magical a part of background. The landscape is most dramatically
accidented where you look past the high terraces of Blacherne toward
the landlocked brightness of the Golden Horn. A view is also to be
admired down the valley of the Lycus, of the whole city stretching to
the sea. But the noblest perspective is the simpler one where the road,
avenue-like between the moat and the cypresses, dips and rises and dips
again toward the Golden Gate and the Marmora, till a last marble tower
stands superbly out of the blue. The contrast of sea and cypresses and
tawny stones, always perfect, here takes an insensible colour, I suppose,
from the thought of the sentinels who called from tower to tower in old
Byzantine nights; and of all the horsemen and banners that have ridden
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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