Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The Arsenal has given a certain colour to the whole suburb of Kassîm
Pasha. It is chiefly inhabited by naval officers, who under Abd ül Hamid
II outnumbered their men! There is a quarter of it called _Kalliounjou
Koullouk_, which means the Guard-house of the Galleon Men. There are also
a number of fountains in Kassîm Pasha carved with three ship lanterns
to show who built them. And not the least famous of the Princes of the
Sea lies there himself beside the mosque he raised out of the spoils of
his piracies. This Pialeh Pasha was by birth a Croat and the son of a
shoemaker. Captured as a boy by the Janissaries, he grew up to command
the fleets of his captors, to conquer Chio and sixty-six other islands,
and to marry the daughter of Sultan Selim II. But he failed to take Malta
from the Knights of St. John, and it was the bitterness of his life. His
mosque is almost unknown, so far does it lie in the back of Kassîm Pasha.
They say that Pialeh dug a canal to its doors. They also say that he
wanted to make it like a ship. The mosque, at all events, is different
from all other mosques I know. The nave is shallower than it is wide,
its six equal domes being held up by two central pillars like masts,
while the single minaret rises out of the wall opposite the _mihrab_.
The _mihrab_ itself, contained in no apse, is perhaps the finest tiled
_mihrab_ I know. Some of the tiles have been stolen, however, and the
mosque in general has a pillaged appearance. I thought from the bareness
of the entrance wall that a large part of the magnificent frieze of blue
and white tiles, an inscription by the famous Hassan Chelibi, must have
been stolen too, until the _imam_ told me that the frieze originally
stopped there, as no true believer may turn his back on any part of the
Koran. The outside of the mosque is also unusual, with its deep porch,
two-storied at either end. It is the largest mosque on the left bank
of the Golden Horn, and even without its historical and architectural
interest it would be worth a visit for the charm of its plane-shaded
yard and the cypress grove behind the mosque where Pialeh lies in a
neglected _türbeh_.
[Illustration: The _mihrab_ of Pialeh Pasha]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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