Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Of a very different character is the hollow of converging valleys outside
the city wall where lies, at the end of the Golden Horn proper, the
suburb of Eyoub Soultan. Eyoub Soultan, _anglice_ Prince Job, takes its
name from a friend and standard-bearer of the Prophet who took part
in the third Arab siege of Constantinople in 668 and fell outside the
walls. Of this good man and his last resting-place so many legendary
things are related that I don’t know where my chapter would end if I
repeated only the few of them I have heard. I can only say that when
Sultan Mehmed II was making his own siege, eight hundred years later,
he opportunely discovered the burial-place of the saintly warrior.
This discovery having stimulated the flagging ardour of the besiegers,
with what results we know, the Conqueror built a splendid mausoleum
above the grave of the Prophet’s friend and beside it the first of the
imperial mosques. To this, the holiest shrine of Islam in Constantinople,
the sultans come for that ceremony which takes for them the place of a
coronation—to be girded with the sword of Osman. So holy a shrine is it
that until the re-establishment of the constitution in 1908 no Christian
had ever entered that mosque except in disguise, or so much as its outer
court. Even now it is not easy for a Christian to see the inside of the
_türbeh_. I have not, at all events. But I count myself happy to have
seen its outer wall of blue and green tiles, shaded by broad eaves and
pierced in the centre by an intricate grille of brass which shines where
the fingers of the faithful pass over the letters of the creed. And I
must confess that I lay up no grudge against the _imams_ for keeping me
out. I cannot say it is for the same reason that another man of God,
with whom I sometimes sit in front of another tomb in Stamboul, once
gave me for never having been himself in the tomb of Eyoub: that he did
not feel himself worthy. It is, rather, an inconsistent feeling that I
am not sorry if some things and some places still be held sacred in the
world. On one side of the tomb, opening out of the same tiled wall, is
a _sebil_ where an attendant waits to give cups of cold water to the
thirsty. On the other side a window opens through a grille of small green
bronze hexagons into a patch of garden where a few rose-bushes stand
among graves. And in the centre of the quadrangle stand two enormous
plane-trees, or what is left of them, planted there by the Conqueror five
hundred years ago. The mosque itself is not very interesting, having been
restored too many times. It contains one much-prized relic, however,
consisting of a print of the Prophet’s foot in stone. Beside the mosque
and the forecourt is a second court, larger and irregular in shape, also
shaded by plane-trees, where, furthermore, are a fountain of ablution and
painted gravestones in railings and a colony of pigeons that are pampered
like those of St. Mark’s.
[Illustration: Eyoub]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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