Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The two rivers are now called Ali Bey Souyou and Kiat Haneh Souyou, and
a power-house has taken the place of the altar of Semistra. The upper
branches of both valleys are bridged by a number of aqueducts, of all
periods from Justinian to Süleïman, and emperors and sultans alike
loved to take refuge in this pleasant wilderness. How it may have been
with the Greeks I do not know, but for the Turks spring has always been
the season of the rivers. The northern extremity of Eyoub, bordering
the Silver Pools, is still called _Beharieh_, from a spring palace of
Sultan Mahmoud I that exists no more. It is with the name of his uncle
Ahmed III, however, that the two valleys are chiefly associated. The
last words of Nero might more justly have been uttered by this humane
and splendour-loving prince—_qualis artifex pereo!_ He delighted above
all things in flowers, water, and illuminations—though I cannot conceal
that he also cherished an extreme admiration for breathing beauty. He
was one of the greatest builders who have reigned in Constantinople,
and he had the good fortune to discover a grand vizier of like tastes
with himself. It happened that an intelligent young envoy of theirs,
known by the curious name of Twenty-eight Mehmed, from the number of
his years when he signed the Peace of Passarowitz went, in 1720, on a
special embassy to Paris. He brought back such accounts of the court of
Louis XV, such pictures and presents also, as to change the whole course
of Ottoman architecture. So vivid a description in particular did the
ambassador give of the new palace of Versailles and of its older rival
at Marly-le-Roi, that Ahmed III resolved to imitate them. He had already
built a seat on the banks of the Ali Bey Souyou, whose magnificent planes
and cypresses may still be admired there. He then turned his attention
to the Kiat Haneh valley, where he played strange tricks with the river,
laid out gardens, built a palace, and commanded his courtiers to follow
his example—_à la_ Louis XIV and the Signs of the Zodiac. There grew up
as by magic a continuous line of villas and gardens from the village of
Kiat Haneh to that of Sütlüjeh, opposite Eyoub. And the fête which the
sultan gave when he inaugurated this new pleasure-ground was the most
splendid of the many that marked his long reign. It befell him, however,
in 1730, to be dethroned. Whereupon a fanatical mob asked permission of
his successor to burn the palaces of Kiat Haneh. Mahmoud I replied that
he could not allow the palaces to be burned, lest other nations draw
unfavourable conclusions with regard to the inner harmony of the empire,
but that the palaces might be destroyed! They accordingly were—one
hundred and seventy-three of them. Of so much magnificence not one stone
now remains upon another, and he who rows past the Silver Pools to-day is
almost asphyxiated by the fumes of the brick-kilns that have replaced the
pleasances of old.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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