Constantinople, painted by Warwick Goble, described by Alexander Van MillingenVan Millingen, Alexander
Philosophy
Constantinople, painted by Warwick Goble, described by Alexander Van Millingen
Van Millingen, Alexander
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The oldest ecclesiastical edifice in the city--the Church of S. John the
Baptist, attached to the monastery of Studius--does not, however,
represent Byzantine architecture. Built in 463, it is a basilica, and
accordingly is a specimen--the only specimen in Constantinople--of the
earliest type of a Christian sanctuary. It was well-nigh destroyed in a
conflagration that devastated the district of Psamatia in 1782, and its
roof was crushed in by a heavy fall of snow some three winters ago. But,
though only the shadow of its former self, its primitive character can
be clearly recognised. The old atrium before the church is still here,
with a phiale or fountain in its centre for the purification of the
gathering worshippers. Of the colonnaded cloister along the four sides
of the atrium, the western portion, borne by four columns and forming
the narthex of the church, still stands. There catechumens and
penitents, unworthy to tread the holy ground within the sanctuary, stood
outside and afar off. Beautiful trees now spread their branches over the
court, and the shaded light falls upon turbaned Moslem tombs, as of yore
it fell upon the graves of Christian monks, from the trees growing in
the Paradise of the monastery. It is the most peaceful spot in all
Constantinople, and as fair as it is calm and quiet. The narthex
belongs, undoubtedly, to the original fabric. Its marble pillars crowned
by Corinthian capitals of a late type bear a horizontal entablature, and
the egg and dart ornament, the dentils, the strings of pearls, familiar
in the friezes of Greek and Roman temples mingle with foliage, birds,
and crosses, expressive of new ideas and tastes. Within, the interior
was a hall 89 feet by 83, divided by a double row of seven columns of
verde antique marble, into a nave and two aisles. The proportion of
length to breadth is greater than is usual in basilicas of the West,
and an indication of the tendency to assume the square plan which
Byzantine architecture so strongly manifests. The long lessening vistas
so impressive in Western churches are rarely, if ever, found in an
Eastern sanctuary. In the latter the structure is more compact, and the
worshipper stands before a Presence that compasses him about alike on
every side. At the eastern end of the nave is the usual apse,
semicircular within, a polygon of three sides on the exterior. Triforium
galleries, now gone, divided the aisles in two stories, the upper storey
bearing also columns of verde antique. The columns of the lower tier
were bound by a horizontal entablature, while their fellows above were
united by arches, a mingling of old and new forms. The roof was of wood,
as in similar basilicas elsewhere. The church recalls the Church of S.
Agnes at Rome. Its disappearance will be a matter of deep regret, not
only as an ancient landmark, but as an edifice which preserved the
surroundings of early Christian congregations, and reflected, however
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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