De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
An irresistible attraction calls me back once more among the tombs:
this time it is those numberless imperial türbehs scattered throughout
the Turkish city, those charming examples of the Mussulman’s art and
philosophy, which occupy so conspicuous a place in our recollections
of the East. By means of a firman we gained admission, first of all,
to the türbeh of Mahmûd the Reformer, which stands in a garden full
of roses and jasmine not far from the At-Meidan. It is a beautiful
circular building of white marble, whose leaden dome is supported upon
Ionic pilasters:[K] there are seven windows, furnished with gilded
gratings, some of which overlook one of the principal streets of
Stambul. Inside, the walls are ornamented with bas-reliefs and covered
with silken and brocade hangings. In the centre stands the tomb,
covered with costly Persian shawls, and lying on it is the imperial
fez, emblem of reform, with its plume and diamond aigrette, and within
the enclosure, which is surrounded by a graceful railing inlaid with
mother-of-pearl, are placed four massive silver candlesticks. The tombs
of seven sultans stand along the walls; costly rugs and carpets of
many hues cover the pavement; and here and there rare MSS. copies of
the Koran with gold lettering lie upon rich reading-desks. A silver
case contains a curiosity connected with Mahmûd’s youth, which he
directed should be placed on his tomb at his death. It consists of a
long strip of muslin covered with minute Arabian characters, extracts
from the Koran, which with infinite patience the Sultan traced when he
was confined as a prisoner in the Old Seraglio before his accession.
From the interior of the türbeh glimpses are caught through the window
gratings of branches of trees without, the scent of roses pours in, and
the little building is filled with light and the stir and movement of
the city, as though it were an open gallery. Women and children
pause as they go by to look through the windows and murmur a prayer.
There is something primitive and very sweet about it all that touches
the heart, as though, not the skeleton, but the soul of the dead
sultan lay within those walls, listening to his people who greet him
in passing; in dying he has merely exchanged his kiosk in the Seraglio
for this one, which is no less cheerful than the other; he is still
in the sunlight, in the noise and bustle of Stambul; still among his
children--nearer to them, indeed, than before; just on the edge of
life and in sight of all; still exhibiting before their eyes his plume
glittering as it was ever wont to do when he appeared before them,
glowing with life and magnificence, on his way to the mosque to pray
for the prosperity of the empire. And it is the same with all the other
türbehs--that of Ahmed, of Bayezid (whose head rests upon a brick made
of the dust collected from his clothing and slippers), of Suleiman,
of Mustafa, and Selim III., of Abdul-Hamid, and of Roxalana: they are
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