De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
fourth is hidden, the third vanishes, the second fades away; only the
Seraglio Hill is left, and that--Heaven be praised!--will still remain
to us for a little longer at least. Already we are in mid stream,
advancing rapidly up the Bosphorus; Topkhâneh flies by, then Fundukli,
then the white and sculptured façades of Dolmabâghcheh; Skutari
presents to us for the last time her amphitheatre of hills covered with
gardens and villas.
[Illustration: Bosphorus: View of Shores of Asia and Europe.]
Farewell, Constantinople, vast and dearly-loved city, dream of my
childhood, desire of my youth, and unfading memory of my life!
Farewell, exquisite and immortal queen of the Orient! May time soften
thy lot without impairing thy beauty, and may my children one day greet
thee with the same ecstasy of youthful enthusiasm with which I bid thee
farewell!
The sadness of parting was, however, soon forgotten in the delight of
finding a new Constantinople, even larger and more exquisitely lovely
than the one we had left upon the banks of the Golden Horn, extending
for about sixteen miles along the two most beautiful shores on earth.
The first village to come into sight upon our left--that is, upon
the European shore--is Beshiktash, a large Turkish suburb of
Constantinople, lying at the foot of a hill and enclosing a small
harbor; behind it a charming valley--the ancient valley of the _allori
di Stefano_ of Byzantium--ascends in the direction of Pera; a group
of plane trees rising in the midst of the houses marks the sepulchre
of the famous corsair Barbarossa; and a large café, always crowded,
extends out over the water supported on piles; the harbor is gay with
käiks and other boats, the shore covered with people, the hillsides
with verdure, and the valley filled with houses and gardens; but it
is no longer like a suburb of Constantinople: already we note the
distinctive character, the matchless radiance and charm peculiar to
the villages along the Bosphorus; the objects are smaller, the foliage
thicker, the coloring more brilliant: it is like a nest of smiling
little houses suspended between sky and water, a tiny city inhabited
by lovers and poets, only designed to last as long as the fires of
passion or genius may burn, and placed there to gratify a whim on some
fair summer’s night. Hardly have our eyes rested well upon it than it
is already gone, and we find ourselves opposite the Cheragan palace,
or rather row of white marble palaces, at once chaste and magnificent,
adorned with long lines of columns and crowned with terraces and
balconies, above which floats an airy cloud of innumerable white birds
of the Bosphorus, standing out clearly against the brilliant foliage of
the hillsides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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