De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
It is not owing to any architectural beauty that the interest of the
whole world is directed toward the Seraglio. Unlike the Alhambra, it
is not a great artistic monument: the Court of the Lions alone in the
Arabian palace is worth all the kiosks and towers of the Turkish one
put together. No, the value of the Seraglio lies wholly in its great
historic interest: it illustrates and gives life to almost the entire
history of the Ottoman dynasty; upon its walls and the trunks of its
century-old trees are engraved the most secret and intimate records
of the empire. Nothing but the period covered by the past thirty[E]
years and the two centuries preceding the conquest of Constantinople
are wanting to complete the chronicle. From Muhammad II., who laid
its foundations, to Abdul-Megid, who abandoned it to take up his
residence in the palace of Dolmabâghcheh, twenty-five sultans have
dwelt there. Hardly had the dynasty conquered its European metropolis
when it planted its foot upon this spot; here it climbed to the apex
of its glory, and here its decadence began. It was at once a palace,
a fortress, and a sanctuary; here was the brain of the empire and
the heart of Islamism; it was a city within a city, an imposing
and magnificent stronghold, inhabited by a people, guarded by an
army, embracing within its walls an infinite variety of buildings,
pleasure-grounds, and prisons, city, country, palaces, arsenals,
schools, offices, and mosques, where fêtes, executions, religious
ceremonies, love affairs, state functions, and wild revels succeeded
one another with startling rapidity; here sultans were born, elevated
to the throne, deposed, imprisoned, strangled; here were woven the
tangled webs of every conspiracy that threatened the empire; here
resounded the hoarse cry of every popular tumult; hither flowed the
purest gold and bluest blood of the Turkish dominions; here was
wielded that shining blade that flashed above the heads of a hundred
different peoples; and upon this spot, for nearly three centuries, was
concentrated the gaze of uneasy Europe, suspicious Asia, and cowering
Africa, as upon some smoking crater which threatened at any moment to
overflow and engulf the whole earth.
[E] This was written in 1874.--TRANS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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