De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
This huge royal residence is situated upon the most eastern of
Stambul’s seven hills, the one which inclines gently to the edge of
the Sea of Marmora, the mouth of the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn.
It is the site formerly occupied by the Acropolis of Byzantium, a part
of the ancient city and one wing of the great imperial palace, and
is by far the most beautiful hill in Constantinople, as well as the
promontory most favored by nature of the whole European shore. Here
converge as to a common centre two seas and two straits; to this spot
led all the great military and commercial high-roads of Eastern Europe;
torrents of water poured into it through the aqueducts constructed by
the Byzantine emperors; the hills of Thracia protect it from the north
winds; the sea bathes it on three sides; Galata watches over it from
the harbor; Skutari mounts guard from across the Bosphorus; and
the snow-crowned heights of Bithynia close in the Asiatic horizon.
Standing alone at the extreme end of the great metropolis in an almost
isolated position, in its beauty and strength it seems formed by nature
to act as the pedestal of a great monarchy, and to encircle and screen
the life of those princes who were half gods.
[Illustration: Panorama of the Seraglio.]
The entire hill is surrounded at its base by a high battlemented wall
flanked by massive towers. On the sides toward the Sea of Marmora and
the Golden Horn this is identical with the city wall. On the land side
it was erected by Muhammad II., and shuts the Seraglio Hill off from
that one on which the mosque of Nûri Osmaniyeh stands. Describing a
right angle near the Sublime Porte, it passes in front of St. Sophia,
and then, making a wide outward curve, joins the walls of Stambul
on the shore. This is the outer enclosure of the Seraglio. Properly
speaking, what is meant by the Seraglio is only that part which
occupies the summit of the hill, shut in behind high walls of its
own--the central redoubt, as it were, of the great fortress of the hill.
It would be, however, nothing but wasted time and energy to enter into
a detailed description of this spot such as it is at present. The
railroad crosses its outer walls; a disastrous fire destroyed many of
the buildings in 1865; the gardens are largely despoiled of their
beauty; hospitals, barracks, and military schools have been established
within its precincts; and of the old buildings which are still standing
many have been either so altered or their original function so changed
that, although the most salient features still remain, and one finds
the outline of the Old Seraglio clearly defined, yet the number and
nature of the minor alterations and the abandonment and neglect of the
past thirty years have so changed the character of the whole place that
it would be impossible to render a faithful description of it as it now
appears without disappointing even the most modest expectations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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