[228] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED GOOSE
_IUS CANDIDUM IN ANSERE ELIXO_
PEPPER, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, ONION, LASER ROOT,
TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL [1]
[1] A "sweet-sour" white sauce with herbs and spices is
often served with goose in northern Germany.
[229] TREATMENT OF STRONG SMELLING BIRDS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION
_AD AVES HIRCOSAS _[1]_ OMNI GENERE_
FOR BIRDS OF ALL KINDS THAT HAVE A GOATISH [1] SMELL [2] PEPPER,
LOVAGE, THYME, DRY MINT, SAGE, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH,
OIL, REDUCED MUST, MUSTARD. THE BIRDS WILL BE MORE LUSCIOUS AND
NUTRITIOUS, AND THE FAT PRESERVED, IF YOU ENVELOP THEM IN A DOUGH OF
FLOUR AND OIL AND BAKE THEM IN THE OVEN [3].
[1] Probably game birds in an advanced stage of "_haut
goût_" (as the Germans use the antiquated French term),
or "_mortification_" as the French cook says. Possibly
also such birds as crows, black birds, buzzards, etc.,
and fish-feeding fowl. Moreover, it must be borne in
mind that the refrigeration facilities of the ancients
were not too good and that fresh goods spoiled quickly.
Hence, perhaps, excessive seasoning, at least, as
compared to our modern methods.
List. _aves piscivoras_; Hum. thinks the birds to be
downright spoiled: _olidas, rancidas, & grave olentes_.
[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] For birds with a goatish smell Apicius should have
repeated his excellent formula in ℞ No. 212, the
method of parboiling the birds before final coction, if,
indeed, one cannot dispense with such birds altogether.
The above recipe does not in the least indicate how to
treat smelly birds. Wrapping them in dough would vastly
increase the ill-savour.
As for game birds, we agree with most connoisseurs that
they should have just a suspicion of "_haut goût_"--a
condition of advanced mellowness after the _rigor
mortis_ has disappeared.
[230] ANOTHER TREATMENT OF ODOR
_ALIUD CONTRA UIROSUM ODOREM_ [1]
[IF THE BIRDS SMELL, [1]] STUFF THE INSIDE WITH CRUSHED FRESH OLIVES,
SEW UP [the aperture] AND THUS COOK, THEN RETIRE THE COOKED OLIVES.
[1] Tor.; other texts _aliter avem_, i.e. that the olive
treatment is not necessarily confined to ill smelling
birds alone.
VI
[231] FOR FLAMINGO [and Parrot]
_IN PHŒNICOPTERO_
SCALD [1] THE FLAMINGO, WASH AND DRESS IT, PUT IT IN A POT, ADD WATER,
SALT, DILL, AND A LITTLE VINEGAR, TO BE PARBOILED. FINISH COOKING WITH
A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER, AND ADD SOME REDUCED MUST TO GIVE IT
COLOR. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, MINT,
RUE, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD DATES, AND THE FOND OF THE BRAISED
BIRD, THICKEN, [strain] COVER THE BIRD WITH THE SAUCE AND SERVE.
PARROT IS PREPARED IN THE SAME MANNER.
[1] Prior to removing the feathers; also singe the fine
feathers and hair.
[232] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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