[2] G.-V. best broth and a little oil, which is more acceptable. IX HAM _PERNA_ [287] [Baked Picnic] HAM [Pork Shoulder, fresh or cured] _PERNAM_ THE HAM SHOULD BE BRAISED WITH A GOOD NUMBER OF FIGS AND SOME THREE LAUREL LEAVES; THE SKIN IS THEN PULLED OFF AND CUT INTO SQUARE PIECES; THESE ARE MACERATED WITH HONEY. THEREUPON MAKE DOUGH CRUMBS OF FLOUR AND OIL [1] LAY THE DOUGH OVER OR AROUND THE HAM, STUD THE TOP WITH THE PIECES OF THE SKIN SO THAT THEY WILL BE BAKED WITH THE DOUGH [bake slowly] AND WHEN DONE, RETIRE FROM THE OVEN AND SERVE [2]. [1] Ordinary pie or pastry dough, or perhaps a preparation similar to streusel, unsweetened. [2] Experimenting with this formula, we have adhered to the instructions as closely as possible, using regular pie dough to envelop the parboiled meat. The figs were retired from the sauce pan long before the meat was done and they were served around the ham as a garnish. As a consequence we partook of a grand dish that no inmate of Olympus would have sneezed at. In Pompeii an inn-keeper had written the following on the wall of his establishment: _Ubi perna cocta est si convivæ apponitur non gustat pernam linguit ollam aut caccabum._ When we first beheld this message we took the inn-keeper for a humorist and clever advertiser; but now we are convinced that he was in earnest when he said that his guests would lick the sauce pan in which his hams were cooked. [288] TO COOK PORK SHOULDER _PERNÆ _[1]_ COCTURAM_ HAM SIMPLY COOKED IN WATER WITH FIGS IS USUALLY DRESSED ON A PLATTER [baking pan] SPRINKLED WITH CRUMBS AND REDUCED WINE, OR, STILL BETTER, WITH SPICED WINE [and is glazed under the open flame, or with a shovel containing red-hot embers]. [1] _Perna_ is usually applied to shoulder of pork, fresh, also cured. _Coxa_ is the hind leg, or haunch of pork, or fresh ham. Cf. note 1 to ℞ No. 289. X [289] FRESH HAM _MUSTEIS _[1]_ PETASONEM_ [2] A FRESH HAM IS COOKED WITH 2 POUNDS OF BARLEY AND 25 FIGS. WHEN DONE SKIN, GLAZE THE SURFACE WITH A FIRE SHOVEL FULL OF GLOWING COALS, SPREAD HONEY OVER IT, OR, WHAT'S BETTER: PUT IT IN THE OVEN COVERED WITH HONEY. WHEN IT HAS A NICE COLOR, PUT IN A SAUCE PAN RAISIN WINE, PEPPER, A BUNCH OF RUE AND PURE WINE TO TASTE. WHEN THIS [sauce] IS DONE, POUR HALF OF IT OVER THE HAM AND IN THE OTHER HALF SOAK SPECIALLY MADE GINGER BREAD [3] THE REMNANT OF THE SAUCE AFTER MOST OF IT IS THOROUGHLY SOAKED INTO THE BREAD, ADD TO THE HAM [4]. [1] _Musteus_, fresh, young, new; _vinum mustum_, new wine, must. Properly perhaps, _Petasonem ex mustaceis_; cf. note 3. [2] Hum. _verum petaso coxa cum crure_ [shank] _esse dicitur...._ Plainly, we are dealing here with fresh, uncured ham.