COOK THE BULBS INTO A THICK PURÉE [1] AND SEASON WITH THYME, ORIGANY,
HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL.
[1] _Tundes_, i.e. mash. Practically a correction of
℞ No. 305, repeated by Tor.
[307] VARRO SAYS OF BULBS [1]
_VARRO SI QUID DE BULBIS DIXIT_
COOKED IN WATER THEY ARE CONDUCIVE TO LOVE [2] AND ARE THEREFORE ALSO
SERVED AT WEDDING FEASTS, BUT ALSO SEASONED WITH PIGNOLIA NUT OR WITH
THE JUICE OF COLEWORT, OR MUSTARD, AND PEPPER.
[1] The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and
business-like recital of recipes is broken by some
interesting quotation or remark.
Brandt is of the opinion that this remark was added by a
posterior reader.
[2] The texts: _qui Veneris ostium quærunt_--"seek the
mouth of Venus."
This favorite superstition of the ancients leads many
writers, as might be expected, into fanciful
speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says: _Veneram
mirè stimulant, unde et salaces à Martiali vocantur._ 1.
XIII, Ep. 34:
_Cum sit anus conjunx, cum sint tibi mortua membra
Nil aliud, bulbis quam satur esse potes._
We fail to find this quotation from Varro in his works,
M. Teren. Varronis De Re Rustica, Lugduni, 1541, but we
read in Columella and Pliny that the buds or shoots of
reeds were called by some "bulbs," by others "eyes,"
and, remembering that these shoots make very desirable
vegetables when properly cooked, we feel inclined to
include these among the term "bulbs." Platina also adds
the squill or sea onion to this category. Nonnus, p. 84,
Diæteticon, Antwerp, 1645, quotes Columella as saying:
_Jam Magaris veniant genitalia semina Bulbi._
[308] FRIED BULBS
_BULBOS FRICTOS_
ARE SERVED WITH WINE SAUCE [Oenogarum].
XV
MUSHROOMS OR MORELS [1]
_FUNGI FARNEI VEL BOLETI_
[309] MORELS [2]
_FUNGI FARNEI_
MORELS ARE COOKED QUICKLY IN GARUM AND PEPPER, TAKEN OUT, ALLOWED TO
DRIP; ALSO BROTH WITH CRUSHED PEPPER MAY BE USED [to cook the
mushrooms in].
[1] It is noteworthy that the term _spongiolus_ which
creates so much misunderstanding in Book II is not used
here in connection with mushrooms. Cf. ℞ No. 115.
[2] "Ashtree-Mushrooms."
[310] FOR MORELS
_IN FUNGIS FARNEIS_
PEPPER, REDUCED WINE, VINEGAR AND OIL.
[311] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MORELS
_ALITER FUNGI FARNEI_
IN SALT WATER, WITH OIL, PURE WINE, AND SERVE WITH CHOPPED CORIANDER.
[312] MUSHROOMS
_BOLETOS FUNGOS_
FRESH MUSHROOMS ARE STEWED [1] IN REDUCED WINE WITH A BUNCH OF GREEN
CORIANDER, WHICH REMOVE BEFORE SERVING.
[1] Tor.
[313] ANOTHER STYLE OF MUSHROOMS
_BOLETOS ALITER_ [1]
MUSHROOM STEMS [or buds, very small mushrooms] ARE COOKED IN BROTH.
SERVE SPRINKLED WITH SALT.
[1] Tor. _Boletorum coliculi_; G.-V. _calyculos_.
[314] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MUSHROOMS
_BOLETOS ALITER_
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