[3] The root or tubers of this plant was used by the ancients as a vegetable. They probably boiled and then peeled and sliced the tubers, seasoning the pieces with the above ingredients, heated them in bouillon stock and thickened the gravy in the usual way. Since the tuber is very starchy, little roux is required for binding. [4] Afterthought by Tor. printed in italics on the margin of his book. XVIII SNAILS _COCHLEAS_ [323] MILK-FED SNAILS _COCHLEAS LACTE PASTAS_ TAKE SNAILS AND SPONGE THEM; PULL THEM OUT OF THE SHELLS BY THE MEMBRANE AND PLACE THEM FOR A DAY IN A VESSEL WITH MILK AND SALT [1] RENEW THE MILK DAILY. HOURLY [2] CLEAN THE SNAILS OF ALL REFUSE, AND WHEN THEY ARE SO FAT THAT THEY CAN NO LONGER RETIRE [to their shells] FRY THEM IN OIL AND SERVE THEM WITH WINE SAUCE. IN A SIMILAR WAY THEY MAY BE FED ON A MILK PORRIDGE [3]. [1] Just enough so they do not drown. [2] Wanting in Tor. [3] The Romans raised snails for the table in special places called _cochlearia_. Fluvius Hirpinus is credited with having popularized the snail in Rome a little before the civil wars between Cæsar and Pompey. If we could believe Varro, snails grew to enormous proportions. A supper of the younger Pliny consisted of a head of lettuce, three snails, two eggs, a barley cake, sweet wine, refrigerated in snow. Snails as a food are not sufficiently appreciated by the Germanic races who do not hesitate to eat similar animals and are very fond of such food as oysters, clams, mussels, cocles, etc., much of which they even eat in the raw state. [324] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ THE SNAILS ARE FRIED WITH PURE SALT AND OIL AND [a sauce of] LASER, BROTH, PEPPER AND OIL IS UNDERLAID; OR THE FRIED SNAILS ARE FULLY COVERED WITH BROTH, PEPPER AND CUMIN. Tor. divides this into three articles. [325] ANOTHER WAY FOR SNAILS _ALITER COCHLEAS_ THE LIVE SNAILS ARE SPRINKLED WITH MILK MIXED WITH THE FINEST WHEAT FLOUR, WHEN FAT AND NICE AND PLUMP THEY ARE COOKED. XIX EGGS _OVA_ [326] FRIED EGGS _OVA FRIXA_ FRIED EGGS ARE FINISHED IN WINE SAUCE. [327] BOILED EGGS _OVA ELIXA_ ARE SEASONED WITH BROTH, OIL, PURE WINE, OR ARE SERVED WITH BROTH, PEPPER AND LASER. [328] WITH POACHED EGGS _IN OVIS HAPALIS_ SERVE PEPPER, LOVAGE, SOAKED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH. END OF BOOK VII _EXPLICIT APICII POLYTELES: LIBER SEPTIMUS_ [Tac.] APICIUS Book VIII {Illustration: CRATICULA