Apicius certainly excels in the preparation of vegetable dishes (cf.
his cabbage and asparagus) and in the utilization of parts of food
materials that are today considered inferior, hardly worth preparing
for the table except by the very careful and economical housekeeper.
Properly prepared, many of these things are good, often more
nutritious than the dearer cuts, and sometimes they are really
delicious.
One has but to study the methods of ancient and intelligent people who
have suffered for thousands of years under the perennial shortage of
food supplies in order to understand and to appreciate Apician
methods. Be it far from us to advocate their methods, or to wish upon
us the conditions that engendered such methods; for such practices
have been pounded into these people by dire necessity. They have
graduated from the merciless school of hunger.
Food materials, we repeat, were never as cheap and as abundant as they
are today. But who can say that they always will be so in the future?
SCIENCE CONFIRMING ANCIENT METHODS
We must not overlook the remarkable intuition displayed by the
ancients in giving preference to foods with body- and blood-building
properties. For instance, the use of liver, particularly fish liver
already referred to. The correctness of their choice is now being
confirmed by scientific re-discoveries. The young science of nutrition
is important enough to an individual who would stimulate or preserve
his health. But since constitutions are different, the most carefully
conceived dietary may apply to one particular individual only,
provided, however, that our present knowledge of nutrition be correct
and final. This knowledge, as a matter of fact, is being revised and
changed constantly.
If dietetics, therefore, were important enough to have any bearing at
all upon the well-defined methods of cookery, we might go into detail
analyzing ancient methods from that point of view. To call attention
to the "economy," the stewardship, or craftsmanship, in ancient
methods and to the truly remarkable intuition that guided the ancient
cooks is more important. Without these qualities there can be no
higher gastronomy. Without high gastronomy no high civilization is
possible. The honest and experienced nutrition expert, though perhaps
personally opposed to elaborate dining, will discover through close
study of the ancient precepts interesting pre-scientific and
well-balanced combinations and methods designed to jealously guard the
vitamins and dietetic values in dishes that may appear curiously "new"
to the layman that would nevertheless receive the unqualified approval
of modern science.
We respect the efforts of modern dietitians and food reformers; but we
are far removed from the so-called "simple" and "plain" foods
advocated by some well-meaning individuals. With the progress of
civilization we are farther and farther drifting away from it. Even
barbaric and beastly food is not "simple."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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