The ancients were not such confirmed meat eaters as the modern Western
nations, merely because the meat supply was not so ample. Beef was
scarce because of the shortage of large pastures. The cow was sacred,
the ox furnished motive power, and, after its usefulness was gone, the
muscular old brute had little attraction for the gourmet. Today lives
a race of beef eaters. Our beef diet, no doubt is bound to change
somewhat. Already the world's grazing grounds are steadily
diminishing. The North American prairies are being parcelled off into
small farms the working conditions of which make beef raising
expensive. The South American pampas and a strip of coastal land in
Australia now furnish the bulk of the world's beef supply. Perhaps
Northern Asia still holds in store a large future supply of meat but
this no doubt will be claimed by Asia. Already North America is
acclimating the Lapland reindeer to offset the waning beef, to utilize
its Northern wastes.
With the increasing shortage of beef, with the increasing facilities
for raising chicken and pork, a reversion to Apician methods of
cookery and diet is not only probably but actually seems inevitable.
The ancient bill of fare and the ancient methods of cookery were
entirely guided by the supply of raw materials--precisely like ours.
They had no great food stores nor very efficient marketing and
transportation systems, food cold storage. They knew, however, to take
care of what there was. They were good managers.
Such atrocities as the willful destruction of huge quantities of food
of every description on the one side and starving multitudes on the
other as seen today never occurred in antiquity.
Many of the Apician dishes will not appeal to the beef eaters. It is
worthy of note that much criticism was heaped upon Apicius some 200
years ago in England when beef eating became fashionable in that
country. The art of Apicius requires practitioners of superior
intellect. Indeed, it requires a superior clientèle to appreciate
Apician dishes. But practitioners that would pass the requirements of
the Apician school are scarce in the kitchens of the beef eaters. We
cannot blame meat eaters for rejecting the average _chef d'œuvre_
set before them by a mediocre cook who has learned little besides the
roasting or broiling of meats. Once the average man has acquired a
taste for the refined compositions made by a talented and experienced
cook, say, a composition of meats, vegetables or cereals, properly
"balanced" by that intuition that never fails the real artist, the
fortunate diner will eventually curtail the preponderant meat diet. A
glance at some Chinese and Japanese methods of cookery may perhaps
convince us of the probability of these remarks.
Nothing is more perplexing and more alarming than a new dish, but we
can see in a reversion to Apician cookery methods only a dietetic
benefit accruing to this so-called white race of beef eaters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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