GRIND PEPPER WHICH HAS BEEN SOAKED OVERNIGHT, ADD SOME MORE STOCK AND
WORK IT INTO A SMOOTH PASTE; THEREUPON ADD QUINCE-APPLE CIDER, BOILED
DOWN ONE HALF, THAT IS WHICH HAS EVAPORATED IN THE HEAT OF THE SUN TO
THE CONSISTENCY OF HONEY. IF THIS IS NOT AT HAND, ADD FIG WINE [1]
CONCENTRATE WHICH THE ROMANS CALL "COLOR" [2]. NOW THICKEN THE GRAVY
WITH ROUX OR WITH SOAKED RICE FLOUR AND FINISH IT ON A GENTLE FIRE.
[1] Tor. _cammarum_, which should read _caricarum_--wine
of Carica figs.
[2] V. the Roman equivalent for "_singe_," "monkey,"
"_Affe_,"--(the _vulgo_ French is literally translated
into and in actual use in other languages) caramel color
made of burnt sugar to give gravies a palatable
appearance. Cf. No. 73.
The reference by the original to "which the Romans call
'color'" indicates, according to Brandt, that this
formula is NOT of ROMAN origin but probably a
translation into Latin from a Greek cookery book.
This is an interesting suggestion, and it could be
elaborated on to say that the entire Apicius is NOT of
Roman origin. But why should the Greeks who in their
balmy days were so far in advance of Rome in culinary
matters go there for such information?
It is more likely that this reference to Rome comes from
the Italian provinces or the colonies, regions which
naturally would look to Rome for guidance in such
matters.
[56] ANOTHER AMULATUM
_AMULATUM ALITER_
DISJOINT A CHICKEN AND BONE IT. PLACE THE PIECES IN A STEW PAN WITH
LEEKS, DILL AND SALT [water or stock] WHEN WELL DONE ADD PEPPER AND
CELERY SEED, THICKEN WITH RICE [1] ADD STOCK, A DASH OF RAISIN WINE OR
MUST, STIR WELL, SERVE WITH THE ENTRÉES.
[1] G.-V. _oryzam_; Tor. ditto (and on margin) _oridam_;
Hum. _oridiam legendum orindam_--a kind of bread. Dann.
and Goll. rice flour.
In a general way the ancient formula corresponds exactly
to our present chicken fricassée.
[57] SPELT OR FARINA PUDDING
_APOTHERMUM_
BOIL SPELT WITH [Tor. PIGNOLIA] NUTS AND PEELED ALMONDS [1] [G.-V.
AND] IMMERSED IN [boiling] WATER AND WASHED WITH WHITE CLAY SO THAT
THEY APPEAR PERFECTLY WHITE, ADD RAISINS, [flavor with] CONDENSED WINE
OR RAISIN WINE AND SERVE IT IN A ROUND DISH WITH CRUSHED [2] [nuts,
fruit, bread or cake crumbs] SPRINKLED OVER IT [3].
[1] V. We peel almonds in the same manner; the white
clay treatment is new to us.
G.-V. and--which is confusing.
[2] The original: _confractum_--crushed, but what? G.-V.
pepper, for which there is neither authority nor reason.
A wine sauce would go well with it or crushed fruit.
List. and Goll. Breadcrumbs.
[3] This is a perfectly good pudding--one of the very
few desserts in Apicius. With a little sweetening
(supplied probably by the condensed wine) and some
grated lemon for flavor it is quite acceptable as a
dessert.
[58] DE AMBOLATO CAP. IIII
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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