BONELESS PIECES OF ANCHOVIES OR [other small] FISH, EITHER ROAST
[fried] BOILED, CHOP VERY FINE. FILL A CASSEROLE GENEROUSLY WITH THE
SAME [season with] CRUSHED PEPPER AND A LITTLE RUE, ADD SUFFICIENT
BROTH AND SOME OIL, AND MIX IN, ALSO ADD ENOUGH RAW EGGS SO THAT THE
WHOLE FORMS ONE SOLID MASS. NOW CAREFULLY ADD SOME SEA-NETTLES BUT
TAKE PAIN THAT THEY ARE NOT MIXED WITH THE EGGS. NOW PUT THE DISH INTO
THE STEAM SO THAT IT MAY CONGEAL [but avoid boiling] [2]. WHEN DONE
SPRINKLE WITH GROUND PEPPER AND CARRY INTO THE DINING ROOM. NOBODY
WILL BE ABLE TO TELL WHAT HE IS ENJOYING [3].
[1] Tac., Tor. _sic_. List., G.-V. _p. de apua sine
apua_--a dish of anchovies (or smelts) without
anchovies. Tor. formula bears the title _patina de
apua_, and his article opens with the following
sentence: _patin de abua sive apua sic facies_. He is
therefore quite emphatic that the dish is to be made
with the _abua_ or _apua_ (an anchovy) and not without
_apua_, as List. has it. Lan. calls the dish: P. _de
apabadiade_, not identified.
[2] Tor. _impones ad uaporem ut cum ouis meare
possint_--warning, get along with the eggs, i.e. beware
of boiling them for they will curdle, and the experiment
is hopelessly lost. List. however, reads _meare possint_
thus: _bullire p._--boil (!) It is quite plain that Tor.
has the correct formula.
[3] _et ex esu nemo agnoscet quid manducet._ Dann.
renders this sentence thus: "Nobody can value this dish
unless he has partaken of it himself." He is too
lenient. We would rather translate it literally as we
did above, or say broadly, "And nobody will be any the
wiser." List. dwells at length upon this sentence; his
erudite commentary upon the _cena dubia_, the doubtful
meal, will be found under the heading of _cena_ in our
vocabulary. List. pp. 126-7. List. undoubtedly made the
mistake of reading _sine_ for _sive_. He therefore
omitted the _apua_ from his formula. The above boastful
sentence may have induced him to do so.
The above is a fish forcemeat, now seldom used as an
integral dish, but still popular as a dressing for fish
or as quenelles. The modern fish forcemeat is usually
made of raw fish, cream and eggs, with the necessary
seasoning. The material is poached or cooked much in the
same manner as prescribed by the ancient recipe.
[140] A RICH ENTRÉE OF FISH, POULTRY AND SAUSAGE IN CREAM
_PATINA EX LACTE_
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