Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
The entire absence of coral-reefs in certain large areas within the
tropical seas, is a remarkable fact. Thus no coral-reefs were observed,
during the surveying voyages of the “Beagle” and her tender on the west
coast of South America south of the equator, or round the Galapagos
Islands. It appears, also, that there are none[1] north of the equator;
Mr. Lloyd, who surveyed the Isthmus of Panama, remarked to me, that
although he had seen corals living in the Bay of Panama, yet he had
never observed any reefs formed by them. I at first attributed this
absence of reefs on the coasts of Peru and of the Galapagos Islands,[2]
to the coldness of the currents from the south, but the Gulf of Panama
is one of the hottest pelagic districts in the world.[3] In the central
parts of the Pacific there are islands entirely free from reefs; in
some few of these cases I have thought that this was owing to recent
volcanic action; but the existence of reefs round the greater part of
Hawaii, one of the Sandwich Islands, shows that recent volcanic action
does not necessarily prevent their growth.
[1] I have been informed that this is the case, by Lieutenant Ryder,
R.N., and others who have had ample opportunities for observation.
[2] The mean temperature of the surface sea from observations made by
the direction of Captain Fitzroy on the shores of the Galapagos
Islands, between the 16th of September and the 20th of October, 1835,
was 68° Fahr. The lowest temperature observed was 58.5° at the
south-west end of Albemarle Island; and on the west coast of this
island, it was several times 62° and 63°. The mean temperature of the
sea in the Low Archipelago of atolls, and near Tahiti, from similar
observations made on board the _Beagle_, was (although further from
the equator) 77.5°, the lowest any day being 76.5°. Therefore we have
here a difference of 9.5° in mean temperature, and 18° in extremes; a
difference doubtless quite sufficient to affect the distribution of
organic beings in the two areas.
[3] Humboldt’s “Personal Narrative,” volume vii., page 434.
In the last chapter I stated that the bottom of the sea round some
islands is thickly coated with living corals, which nevertheless do not
form reefs, either from insufficient growth, or from the species not
being adapted to contend with the breaking waves.
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