Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
What cause, then, has given to atolls and barrier-reefs their
characteristic forms? Let us see whether an important deduction will
not follow from the consideration of these two circumstances, first,
the reef-building corals flourishing only at limited depths; and
secondly, the vastness of the areas interspersed with coral-reefs and
coral-islets, none of which rise to a greater height above the level of
the sea, than that attained by matter thrown up by the waves and winds.
I do not make this latter statement vaguely; I have carefully sought
for descriptions of every island in the intertropical seas; and my task
has been in some degree abridged by a map of the Pacific, corrected in
1834 by MM. D’Urville and Lottin, in which the low islands are
distinguished from the high ones (even from those much less than a
hundred feet in height) by being written without a capital letter; I
have detected a few errors in this map, respecting the height of some
of the islands, which will be noticed in the Appendix, where I treat of
coral formations in geographical order. To the Appendix, also, I must
refer for a more particular account of the data on which the statements
on the next page are grounded. I have ascertained, and chiefly from the
writings of Cook, Kotzebue, Bellinghausen, Duperrey, Beechey, and
Lutké, regarding the Pacific; and from Moresby[2] with respect to the
Indian Ocean, that in the following cases the term “low island”
strictly means land of the height commonly attained by matter thrown up
by the winds and the waves of an open sea. If we draw a line (the plan
I have always adopted) joining the external atolls of that part of the
Low Archipelago in which the islands are numerous, the figure will be a
pointed ellipse (reaching from Hood to Lazaref Island), of which the
longer axis is 840 geographical miles, and the shorter 420 miles; in
this space[3] none of the innumerable islets united into great rings
rise above the stated level. The Gilbert group is very narrow, and 300
miles in length. In a prolonged line from this group, at the distance
of 240 miles, is the Marshall Archipelago, the figure of which is an
irregular square, one end being broader than the other; its length is
520 miles, with an average width of 240; these two groups together are
1,040 miles in length, and all their islets are low. Between the
southern end of the Gilbert and the northern end of Low Archipelago,
the ocean is thinly strewed with islands, all of which, as far as I
have been able to ascertain, are low; so that from nearly the southern
end of the Low Archipelago, to the northern end of the Marshall
Archipelago, there is a narrow band of ocean, more than 4,000 miles in
length, containing a great number of islands, all of which are low. In
the western part of the Caroline Archipelago, there is a space of 480
miles in length, and about 100 broad, thinly interspersed with low
islands. Lastly, in the Indian Ocean, the archipelago of the Maldivas
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