Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — CompleteDarwin, Charles
Science
Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — Complete
Darwin, Charles
Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
which is 2,000 feet high, presents, according to Mr. Seale, a perfect
network of truncated dikes; on hills like the Flagstaff, formed of soft
rock, we might suppose that the dikes had been worn down and cut off by
meteoric agency, but we can hardly suppose this possible with the hard,
basaltic strata of the Barn.
[17] A fissure-like gorge, near Stony-top, is said by Mr. Seale to be
840 feet deep, and only 115 feet in width.
_Coast denudation._—The enormous cliffs, in many parts between one and
two thousand feet in height, with which this prison-like island is
surrounded, with the exception of only a few places, where narrow
valleys descend to the coast, is the most striking feature in its
scenery. We have seen that portions of the basaltic ring, two or three
miles in length by one or two miles in breadth, and from one to two
thousand feet in height, have been wholly removed. There are, also,
ledges and banks of rock, rising out of profoundly deep water, and
distant from the present coast between three and four miles, which,
according to Mr. Seale, can be traced to the shore, and are found to be
the continuations of certain well-known great dikes. The swell of the
Atlantic Ocean has obviously been the active power in forming these
cliffs; and it is interesting to observe that the lesser, though still
great, height of the cliffs on the leeward and partially protected side
of the island (extending from the Sugar-Loaf Hill to South West Point),
corresponds with the lesser degree of exposure. When reflecting on the
comparatively low coasts of many volcanic islands, which also stand
exposed in the open ocean, and are apparently of considerable
antiquity, the mind recoils from an attempt to grasp the number of
centuries of exposure, necessary to have ground into mud and to have
dispersed the enormous cubic mass of hard rock which has been pared off
the circumference of this island. The contrast in the superficial state
of St. Helena, compared with the nearest island, namely, Ascension, is
very striking. At Ascension, the surfaces of the lava-streams are
glossy, as if just poured forth, their boundaries are well defined, and
they can often be traced to perfect craters, whence they were erupted;
in the course of many long walks, I did not observe a single dike; and
the coast round nearly the entire circumference is low, and has been
eaten back (though too much stress must not be placed on this fact, as
the island may have been subsiding) into a little wall only from ten to
thirty feet high. Yet during the 340 years, since Ascension has been
known, not even the feeblest signs of volcanic action have been
recorded.[18] On the other hand, at St. Helena, the course of no one
stream of lava can be traced, either by the state of its boundaries or
of its superficies; the mere wreck of one great crater is left; not the
valleys only, but the surfaces of some of the highest hills, are
interlaced by worn-down dikes, and, in many
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